UKC

22m.

Rockfax Description
A quality pitch. Climb up and then left, past some good pockets to a large hold below the upper wall. Make some difficult moves to a slim groove. Follow this, and the wall on its right to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 08/Aug/1988.

Ticklists

A Guide for Progress in Dorset, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a, Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland, The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes), Spanish crew 2018, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+, Portland 7a/+, Portland Olympian (6's, max stars), Portland Olympian, Sam and Jerome (Portland Olympian)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jackpacker 31 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Beautiful route with a burly/ sustained mid section crux, using side pull/undercling crimp with RH make long reach to flatty, high heel, rollover to glorious pocket, shake, move feet left, LH up to flake, long move RH to sloper rail, frog feet or drop knee and LH to crimp, super high feet, right foot to trash foothold, lunge to (almost) victory jug. Rest up and do the last technical 4m, try not to fall.
Show beta
βeta: Beautiful route with a burly/ sustained mid section crux, using side pull/undercling crimp with RH make long reach to flatty, high heel, rollover to glorious pocket, shake, move feet left, LH up to flake, long move RH to sloper rail, frog feet or drop knee and LH to crimp, super high feet, right foot to trash foothold, lunge to (almost) victory jug. Rest up and do the last technical 4m, try not to fall.
earthkeptwarm 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 2nd go. Amazing route with awesome big moves at the start and a balancy / techy crux. Sent with the sun almost set and a golden wall. Amazing setting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd go. Amazing route with awesome big moves at the start and a balancy / techy crux. Sent with the sun almost set and a golden wall. Amazing setting.
Lisa P 19 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Dogged most of it. Need to work the moves & find the holds
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dogged most of it. Need to work the moves & find the holds
EvaHerbst 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nice varied climbing - more powerful moves at the bottom, more techy at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice varied climbing - more powerful moves at the bottom, more techy at the top.
David Staples 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pocket can seep which makes a crucial crimp quite wet so worth leaving until the afternoon sun hits and dries it out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pocket can seep which makes a crucial crimp quite wet so worth leaving until the afternoon sun hits and dries it out.
Sam Ring 31 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Cool move committing to poor holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cool move committing to poor holds.
John Alcock 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but I blew the on-sight. That move off the pocket is a bitch if the hidden (created?) hold above is unchalked.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, but I blew the on-sight. That move off the pocket is a bitch if the hidden (created?) hold above is unchalked.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Horny Lil' Devil

Grade: 7a ***
(Lulworth)
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