Rockfax Description
The finest pitch at Compass Point and one of the Culm Coast's enduring classics. Although the final 3m has suffered some instability the route itself is still in good shape and the belay options on the ridge are sufficient. Start right of the earthy ramp below a large pocket at 4m. Easily gain the large pocket and then climb to a peg up and to the left. Continue up with conviction to another large pocket and peg. Move out of the pocket leftwards with difficulty and gain the final shallow pocket, peg. Take the wall above past a further peg to the top. Awkward belays on the ridge. Descend by scrambling right (looking out) to the ridge's high point and descend from here. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
APRIL 2015 UPDATE - The summit ridge above this has suffered another rock fall and the top section is likely to be unstable. Take great care on this route.

Sustained, delicate slab climbing makes this the pick of the routes at Compass Point. Starting under the overhangs on the right of the slab, link the larger and smaller pockets trending leftwards before finishing the top half of the slab direct. Protected mostly by pegs, small nuts and cams are useful, as are larger gear for the belay. Belay on the climb side of the ridge using small/medium cams and nuts.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , South West in Extremis

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