UKC Logbook - 'Crimtyphon'

30m.

Rockfax Description
The finest pitch at Compass Point and one of the Culm Coast's enduring classics. Although the final 3m has suffered some instability the route itself is still in good shape and the belay options on the ridge are sufficient. Start right of the earthy ramp below a large pocket at 4m. Easily gain the large pocket and then climb to a peg up and to the left. Continue up with conviction to another large pocket and peg. Move out of the pocket leftwards with difficulty and gain the final shallow pocket, peg. Take the wall above past a further peg to the top. Awkward belays on the ridge. Descend by scrambling right (looking out) to the ridge's high point and descend from here. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
APRIL 2015 UPDATE - The summit ridge above this has suffered another rock fall and the top section is likely to be unstable. Take great care on this route.

Sustained, delicate slab climbing makes this the pick of the routes at Compass Point. Starting under the overhangs on the right of the slab, link the larger and smaller pockets trending leftwards before finishing the top half of the slab direct. Protected mostly by pegs, small nuts and cams are useful, as are larger gear for the belay. Belay on the climb side of the ridge using small/medium cams and nuts.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , South West in Extremis

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User	Date		Notes
Philip.taylor112	19 Jul, 2024	Show βeta βeta: What a route! Unfortunately peg 3 has snapped (not by me) but there is still ample gear to make it safe. Some loose boulders at the top but the route is still intact. Felt soft for 5c so perhaps a good first E2 for those on the lookout.
Show beta βeta: What a route! Unfortunately peg 3 has snapped (not by me) but there is still ample gear to make it safe. Some loose boulders at the top but the route is still intact. Felt soft for 5c so perhaps a good first E2 for those on the lookout.
Michael Porter	23 Apr, 2024	Show βeta βeta: 5 pegs on route, with peg 3 and 4 within two inches of each other. Route still fine but the top is falling off the north side of the ridge, placed gear in these blocks and scuttled off left to belay from the ab point.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 5 pegs on route, with peg 3 and 4 within two inches of each other. Route still fine but the top is falling off the north side of the ridge, placed gear in these blocks and scuttled off left to belay from the ab point.
simonhammond1966	26 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Still a great route and although there has been some rock fall off the back of the ridge it hasn't really affected this route top belay just required some imagination and lots of anchors. Climbing was great and pegs looked fine.
Show beta βeta: Still a great route and although there has been some rock fall off the back of the ridge it hasn't really affected this route top belay just required some imagination and lots of anchors. Climbing was great and pegs looked fine.