UKC

115m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the longest, most alluring and serious VS climbs in the West Country, Wrecker's Slab is nevertheless the most attempted of its genre on the coast. The huge, slim slab rising from the beach on the far right-hand side of the cliff has very little in the way of technical difficulty but should not be underestimated as the rock is poor, protection spaced and the situations serious. Start at the base of the slab just right of the overhangs.
1) 4a, 35m. Make a couple of tricky moves to easier ground and work out leftwards along an easy-angled section of slab to the arete. Climb a loose corner groove just right of the arete to a good peg and then move up and right on more loose rock to a foot ledge stance and peg belays plus good nut belays 5m above.
2) 4b, 45m. Climb directly to the overlaps and pull through them onto the slab above. Ascend the slab to a belay at a pillar on a grass terrace.
3) 4a, 45m. Climb up past the pillar to the easy-angled upper wall and follow this on its left side to the top of the slab and belay. A short scramble along a ridge is needed to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An amazing cliff, one of the best adventureous routes in the country. Make it a must to climb, what a fantastic day out. Oh and make sure you don't throw all the hand holds down to your belayer.

T. Patey, J Deacon. K Lawder 1959.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Best slab climbs of the UK , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , West Country Climbs , MIA logbook must haves! , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Summer 2017 , South West Classic VS's , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , HS-HVS adventures , Culm/Devon options , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
C00per197 13 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Large amounts of loose rock just about the start of pitch 3. Don't trust the pegs
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large amounts of loose rock just about the start of pitch 3. Don't trust the pegs
RichPacker 2 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Just about every hold is loose, some good gear but extremely spaced in sections, wouldn’t advise climbing it unless you are a bold leader and very comfortable at the grade, the climbing is very straightforward though. Variety of gear needed, larger gear useful near the top, smaller gear on the first two pitches, useful to have gold and blue dragon cams available to set up anchor on the second pitch. First pitch anchor has one peg and a blue dragonfly placement, also managed to get a gold nut in.
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βeta: Just about every hold is loose, some good gear but extremely spaced in sections, wouldn’t advise climbing it unless you are a bold leader and very comfortable at the grade, the climbing is very straightforward though. Variety of gear needed, larger gear useful near the top, smaller gear on the first two pitches, useful to have gold and blue dragon cams available to set up anchor on the second pitch. First pitch anchor has one peg and a blue dragonfly placement, also managed to get a gold nut in.
LukeyG 10 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pegs on first belay are no longer there, small cams required
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pegs on first belay are no longer there, small cams required
Steve Neads 14 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great atmospheric route with no technical difficulty, but a little care needed to avoid loose holds and a bit run out on the first pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great atmospheric route with no technical difficulty, but a little care needed to avoid loose holds and a bit run out on the first pitch.
Tall Oak 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A fair chunk of rock came off from just off the second pitch. Luckily missed my legs and rocketed down the cliff. Stella lead by Max to hold it together on the blank section after the mini overhang.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fair chunk of rock came off from just off the second pitch. Luckily missed my legs and rocketed down the cliff. Stella lead by Max to hold it together on the blank section after the mini overhang.
Dred 22 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Descent. rope in situ and functional
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descent. rope in situ and functional
Matt77 19 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: P1 and P3.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 and P3.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cornakey Cliff

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 142
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 139
Votes cast 144
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
C Land Super

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Cligga Head)

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