One of the longest, most alluring and serious VS climbs in the West Country, Wrecker's Slab is nevertheless the most attempted of its genre on the coast. The huge, slim slab rising from the beach on the far right-hand side of the cliff has very little in the way of technical difficulty but should not be underestimated as the rock is poor, protection spaced and the situations very serious. Start at the base of the slab just right of the overhangs.1) 4a, 35m. Make a couple of tricky moves to easier ground and work out leftwards along an easy-angled section of slab to the arete. Climb a loose corner groove just right of the arete to a good peg and then move up and right on more loose rock to a footledge stance and peg belays plus good nut belays 5m above.2) 4b, 45m. Climb directly to the overlaps and pull through them onto the slab above. Climb the slab to a belay at a pillar on a grass terrace.3) 4a, 45m. Climb up past the pillar to the easy-angled upper wall and follow this on its left side to the top of the slab and belay. A short scramble along a ridge is needed to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An amazing cliff, one of the best adventureous routes in the country. Make it a must to climb, what a fantastic day out. Oh and make sure you don't throw all the hand holds down to your belayer.
The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Best slab climbs of the UK, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, West Country Climbs, MIA logbook must haves!, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Summer 2017, South West Classic VS's, Moving to Devon, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.
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