UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2021 - Tawny Owls frequently nesti in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab unti the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
A very tricky route that has its share of exciting moments. Start just to the right of Striptease below a two-tiered roof. Climb up to the first roof and turn this on the left. Climb to the second roof aiming for a steep groove in its right-hand side. This leads to a slab to the right of Striptease. Move to the right and continue up the groove above to easier ground which is followed to the tree belay/abseil station. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alex Riley 3 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: All brambles and ivy cleaned 3/4/23.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All brambles and ivy cleaned 3/4/23.

Logged Ascents

52 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 6
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Koh-i-Noor

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Carreg y Saeth)

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