UKC

75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the most popular routes in North Wales with fine open climbing (and usually lots of people). From the entrance into the wood, scramble up to a tree on the right below a short chimney. .
1) 10m. Climb easily up the chimney to a tricky step and exit rightwards up a crack to a tree belay.
2) 25m. Re-enter the gully and climb out left to a ledge. Walk left 3m to a crack in a short steep wall and a junction with the Original. Climb the crack to a ledge. Step down to a small sloping ledge and foot-traverse left under a steepening to a groove/crack. Climb a crack on the right to a ledge and traverse right to belay at the base of the corner.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner to a ledge and then take another groove to some perched blocks. Traverse left below, or above, the blocks to a belay below a steep thin crack.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the thin crack and wall to the right to a line of weakness leading right to the arete. Move right to the arete along this (wobbly jug). Follow the arete in an outstanding position to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, CUMC Ticklist, Ultimate HS ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Solos, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Tremadog

Feedback

User Date Notes
JonLongshanks 28 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Final section up the arete is very bold for HS, your only gear mid-way is on a now very loose spike, care needed.
βeta?
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βeta: Final section up the arete is very bold for HS, your only gear mid-way is on a now very loose spike, care needed.
myrddinmuse 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Has the wobbly jug finally wobbled its last wob?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has the wobbly jug finally wobbled its last wob?
owainb 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn’t find the wobbly jug!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn’t find the wobbly jug!
JRex 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Easy but bold top.
βeta?
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βeta: Easy but bold top.

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Votes cast 302
High 4c
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High 4b
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Votes cast 169
Votes cast 270
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Manx Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)
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