Rockfax Description
One of the most popular routes in North Wales with fine open climbing (and usually lots of people). From the entrance into the wood, scramble up to a tree on the right below a short chimney.
1) 10m. Climb easily up the polished chimney to a tricky step and exit rightwards up a crack to a tree belay.
2) 25m. Re-enter the gully and climb out left to a ledge. Walk left 3m to a crack in a short steep wall and a junction with the CC Original. Climb the crack to a ledge. Step down to a small sloping ledge and foot traverse left under a steepening to a groove/crack. Climb a crack on the right to a ledge and traverse right to belay at the base of the corner.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner to a ledge and then take another groove to some perched blocks. Traverse left below, or above, the blocks to a belay below a steep thin crack.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the thin crack and wall to the right to a line of weakness leading right to the arete. Move right to the arete along this (wobbly jug). Follow the arete in an outstanding position to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , CUMC Ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Solos , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
User | Date | Notes | ||
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CharlieBanford | 30 Aug |
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βeta: Could be climbed in one pitch pretty easily if you solo the scrambly start. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Could be climbed in one pitch pretty easily if you solo the scrambly start. |
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JonLongshanks | 28 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Final section up the arete is very bold for HS, your only gear mid-way is on a now very loose spike, care needed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Final section up the arete is very bold for HS, your only gear mid-way is on a now very loose spike, care needed. |
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myrddinmuse | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Has the wobbly jug finally wobbled its last wob? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Has the wobbly jug finally wobbled its last wob? |
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owainb | 11 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Couldn’t find the wobbly jug! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Couldn’t find the wobbly jug! |
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JRex | 30 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Easy but bold top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easy but bold top. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))