One of the most popular routes in North Wales with fine open climbing (and usually lots of people). From the entrance into the wood, scramble up to a tree on the right below a short chimney.
1) 10m. Climb easily up the chimney to a tricky step and exit rightwards up a crack to a tree belay.
2) 25m. Re-enter the gully and climb out left to a ledge. Walk left 3m to a crack in a short steep wall and a junction with the Original. Climb the crack to a ledge. Step down to a small sloping ledge and foot-traverse left under a steepening to a groove/crack. Climb a crack on the right to a ledge and traverse right to belay at the base of the corner.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner to a ledge and then take another groove to some perched blocks. Traverse left below, or above, the blocks to a belay below a steep thin crack.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the thin crack and wall to the right to a line of weakness leading right to the arete. Move right to the arete along this (wobbly jug). Follow the arete in an outstanding position to the top. © Rockfax
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