One of the most popular routes in North Wales with fine open climbing (and usually lots of people). From the entrance into the wood, scramble up to a tree on the right below a short chimney. 1) 10m. Climb easily up the polished chimney to a tricky step and exit rightwards up a crack to a tree belay.2) 25m. Re-enter the gully and climb out left to a ledge. Walk left 3m to a crack in a short steep wall and a junction with the CC Original. Climb the crack to a ledge. Step down to a small sloping ledge and foot traverse left under a steepening to a groove/crack. Climb a crack on the right to a ledge and traverse right to belay at the base of the corner.3) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner to a ledge and then take another groove to some perched blocks. Traverse left below, or above, the blocks to a belay below a steep thin crack. 4) 4b, 20m. Climb the thin crack and wall to the right to a line of weakness leading right to the arete. Move right to the arete along this (wobbly jug). Follow the arete in an outstanding position to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))
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