A classic and very popular route. From the entrance into the woods, walk up to the buttress. Up and right is the Micah Eliminate start, go left and scramble up right to a slab.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb a crack on the right-hand side of the slab to join the Micah Eliminate just after it exits the gully. Climb the crack in a short steep wall to a ledge. Step down to a small sloping ledge and foot-traverse left under a steepening to a groove/crack. Climb a crack on the right to a ledge and traverse left to a belay on the edge of the buttress by a hollow tree and a large flake.
2) 4a,15m. Move left and stand up on the flake and move up into the groove. Step left onto a nose of rock and move up on small but positive holds. As the holds run out, step left towards a chimney and pull up on good holds to a ledge. Climb cracks to a long ledge, arrange gear here and traverse left to a corner at the end of the ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb the corner for 3m, span left to a jug and swing round the arete. Continue left to a small ledge and head up in the same line to spikes and a better ledge above. Climb the polished wall above aiming for the base of the groove. Once in the groove, move onto the right arete and climb this to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A much-ascended classic taking the easiest line up Plum Buttress.
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