UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
Direct but not very grim, unless someone abseils on your head, which does happen! Start right of the vegetated gully at the first flattening on the approach path, past the base of Void.
1) 5b, 30m. Move up to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to the top and move up and left onto a slab. Traverse left to a steepening and move up a faint groove over the bulge to another slab. Move up the slab to a flake/crack on the left and continue up a small rib to its right into a bay below another steepening. Move up and left over this before stepping back right to a tree belay.
2) 5b, 25m. Head straight up and make a committing move up the wall to gain easier climbing that leads to a roof in a right-facing groove. Move right around the roof and into the upper groove and follow this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Stared Tremadog E1's , High Quality Adventure routes , Extreme 2018 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Jonesy's leg day ticklist

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 218
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 209
Votes cast 205
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre Wall

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

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