Rockfax Description
A great route that doesn't see too much traffic. Start as for Grotto. Go straight up from the pyramidal spike and up the crack until you can step out left onto a sloping scoop of rock. Follow this out left to a flake-crack through a roof. Just above is the belay on the original. Most continue on up the rib above the belay in one rope length, finishing just left of Christmas Curry. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fantastic little route. It is possible to abseil to the base from the top on a doubled over 60m rope, so you don't have to do the approach up Christmas Curry.
The route starts from the lefthand end of the ledge by the large flake belay on Christmas Curry. Move left up a small triangular slab to near the arete and climb the crack just to its right up. After 8m or so you will see a large roof over to the left with a scoop leading below it. Climb across the scoop and gain the crack through the left side of the roof and follow it to where you almost join Christmas Curry. Then head up and left to regain an arete and follow this up, when the arete runs out carry on direct to the top.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))