The approach is a little awkward, but the final groove is well worth it. Scramble up a steep vegetated path through the undergrowth to a sloping ledge below the steep wall.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb up a shallow groove to a tiny ledge. Move round the rib on the left to a niche. Pull out left again round a rib, then climb a groove to a small roof. Heave round this then use a crack on the left to move up to a well-positioned stance below the intimidating groove.
2) 5c, 20m. Move right and climb the brilliant and very sustained groove with a hard pull to finish. © Rockfax
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