Rockfax Description
A harrowing lead to this day, one can only imagine the horror of the first ascent in 1945! Start below and slightly left of the grassy ledge. Climb up the wall past some gear. This runs out quite quickly but the climbing soon eases as you move up and right towards the grassy ledge. Shuffle to the right-hand end of the ledge where an alarming move leads to the first gear in a long time. Now move up and right on improving holds, with only just adequate protection, to a slab. Follow this to a ledge and carry on up to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.

andi turner 09/Jul/17 Lead
with John Perry
wi11 15/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Sally
ferdia 07/May/17 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
Si 08/Apr/17 2nd

I thought the gear was pretty uninspiring throughout although climbing is steady, after the ledge is very bold. Wet near the top too. Good lead by Stu

with Stu
soph 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Seemed very bold and serious after grassy ledge

with Frances Taylor
RKirke 20/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Stroppy 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Not what I was expecting, found the 2nd part really unprotected and concerning. Climbing was steady but wet at the top.

Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
James Thacker ??/2016 -
pie_eater_pete 30/Jun/15 AltLd
squicky 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S

First rock route in 11 months so went well considering! Start was hard but eased off from there. Great situation!

with Iris, John
Dan724 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Miller
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
stuart34 10/Sep/14 Lead β
with Niels de german
JamesWilliams 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

AMAZING!not nearly as bad as I thought it was. and although spaced a lot of the gear is pretty good. starts the crux then bold of the ledge. small red X4 camalot would give more protection than my half in size 2 nut

with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 23/Jul/14 2nd
Ewan Russell 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Halla
Hidden 30/Jun/14 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jun/14 Lead β
Rachel Slater 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Wood for Trees 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

outstanding, I can't believe how bold they used to be.

with Liam P, oli, 5c Steve
Ed Booth 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Anna Pugh
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with Steve Davis
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
LRob 21/Jul/13 Lead β
mr mills 21/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with edwin
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
AlexD 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing on an intimidating bit of rock! Start felt very hard but the rest was steady.

with Amy, Maria
Hidden 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S
maria85 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Lovely climb, first moves a bit tricky (long reach helpful but not essential as Julie proved!) then steady. Would have been freaked out on lead though, gear is spaced and not brilliant.

with Julie, Amy
Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dominic lee 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with molly, nathan lee
eduardo 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Misha
Misha 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Thought the crux was hard, a bit blind and bold (above a poor micro cam). Turned out I'd actually started up the E5! Explains why it was a bit licheney. Crux was hard 5c moving left into the correct line. Probably a bit harder than the proper start. The rest was no pushover but reasonably protected where it mattered. A good route. Walked off as a guy was starting the E5 below the ab - a bit muddy but ok.

with Ed
alasdair19 ?/Jul/13 2nd

alex lead dry and chalked

Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/13 2nd
Dave Searle ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead β
pete johnson 26/May/12 Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2012 Lead
captain dringo ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 Lead

Inspired to this after watching someone put about twenty runners in. Must have been RP's because all I found were two poor wires before the ledge then wobbled up the crux with a half in rock two. Relieved to reach the spike but it moved so managed without...

Ollie B 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S

found 1 bomber runner at the end...... awesome route though

with C.Radford
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd
JRae 30/Jul/11 Lead
robinsi197 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Nick
CRiddiford 30/Jul/11 2nd

cool and intersting start moves with the rucksack...!

with Jonny, Libby
Duncan Campbell 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Ok but positive moves and very little good gear... scary! Unsure of whether I would be able to do Capital Punishment after feeling terrifyed on this!

with Mason
chriscarroll 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
benchwarmer 14/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Konrad
benchwarmer 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Calum Musket
owain86 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing

metal arms 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
MBarraclough 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Thought the so called crux at the bottom was a bit of a breeze to be honest. The top half went pretty steady, although some of the gear placements are a bit... ahem... dubious shall we say!

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
hamish2016 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Alex
Owain Llewelyn 27/Aug/10 Lead

Cracking route, steady with just enough gear. Hit the finishing holds just as the rain came....made it interesting for my dad seconding.

with Dad
akhughes 21/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Jonnie Stocking
Sam W 19/Jun/10 Lead

Gear very poor, scary

with Carissa
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Shauna 23/May/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
JulesV 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Alex Mason 23/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Seconded in 2005 or 2006. really good, very bold for E2.

with Laura Perry
titchbach ?/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
josh william legg ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
harvie 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Dan 85 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Hardest bit is off the deck. Then move off right hand side of ledge seemed pretty unprotected (maybe ok with specific micros).

with Pete, Josh
Adam Booth 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 25/May/09 2nd O/S

awesome. pretty steady really.

Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
mattyork2 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Scary and run out with relatively straight forward climbing

with Henry Fairhurst and John Vincent
dan gibson 20/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Luke Brooks 05/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Dave
feilx 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Floris
barni 20/Sep/08 Lead

near dropped nuts again

with Cal
Hidden 19/Sep/08 2nd
dodfoster 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S

start felt serious but ultimately steady. great climbing all the way with sufficient gear and a superb pocketed second half. first route of the day

with jo
Hidden 19/May/08 Lead O/S
datoon 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with K & RT
HughM ?/May/08 2nd O/S
with Ben Bamford
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Wez
Luke Brooks 19/Apr/07 Lead O/S

The gear was much worse than I thought it would be, and I thought it would be bad.

Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 -
IOAN D 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Mills
Ram MkiV 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Last climb of a quality Wales trip. Bit of a spooky/perculiar note to leave on but good none the less.

with Alex
Andrew Barker ?/May/06 Lead O/S


Derek Ryden ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Pete Griffiths
haydng ??/2006 Lead O/S
dan_o_b ??/2005 2nd O/S
Chad123 ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 28/Aug/04 Lead
spidey 17/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with gruff
Dave Musgrove ?/May/02 Lead β

On BMC International Meet. Led first by a chap from Finland who kindly left the gear in for me. Not that there was very much!

with Katherine Schirmacher
Mark Davies PK ?/Apr/02 2nd O/S
with Fiend
paul m hadley ??/2002 Lead
Shaw Brown ??/2002 2nd O/S

Bold for the grade. Amazing first acent for it's day.

with David Menadue
Brown ??/2002 Solo O/S
Dave Rumney 29/Jul/01 Lead
with Sean Roberts
Steve Crowe 16/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with KM
duncan 12/May/01 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
Mark Riley ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Stuart Greenall
WB 10/May/00 Lead O/S
with James, Paul
frost ?/May/00 Lead
with J Hubbard
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
Rich Kirby 01/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Robin & Tim Bonner
Hidden 01/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Grezza ?/Aug/99 2nd O/S

unexpectedly fine

Roget 15/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jim
Marti999 13/Jun/99 Lead
with lorna
zero six ??/1998 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/97 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Jon Sykes, Muir Morton
phardman ??/1997 -
richparry ??/1996 Lead O/S
pete johnson 25/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
D Tempest 14/Jul/94 2nd
with Rick
shoulders 01/Jun/94 2nd O/S
pauldrew ??/1994 Lead
with Duncan Hornsby
mattnuttall 24/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Andy Say 12/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Steven Murphy
whispering nic 25/May/91 Solo
with Ali W
mark-abz 09/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
Bullybones ??/1990 -
daviesxxx ??/1990 Lead O/S
with jjk
michael burrows 10/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with brian jones
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/89 Lead
uphillnow 11/Jun/89 2nd
charlesmfrench 11/Jun/89 Lead O/S

I remember it being very bold with only 1 RP to protect behind a flake. This looked as though it had seen a lot of service.

phardman 11/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
wynaptomos ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
nigehughes ?/Sep/84 Lead
with Malcolm Boater
Hidden 18/Aug/83 Lead
steveboote ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Pete Corbishley
Melok ??/1983 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/82 2nd

I caught Bob when he slipped from the crux moves on P1 & pushed him back up the route. The 2nd pitch is really good.

with Bob Millward
Neil McA 29/May/82 2nd O/S
with Steve Andrews
Bob 31/May/81 Lead O/S

One of my first E2s. Led it after Mike backed off the lower wall.

with M. Lynch
Nic Robinson 01/Feb/81 Lead O/S
with Nick Bond
Hidden 04/May/80 2nd
Hidden ??/1980 -
Nic Robinson ??/1980 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
with Dave Spencer
uphillnow ??/1980 -
with charlie french
Ian Jones ??/1980 2nd β
with Billy Jones
Mark Kemball 21/Oct/79 Lead
with John Jefferies
Mike Owen 09/Aug/77 Lead O/S
with Pete White
Steve Lewis 21/Aug/76 2nd
with Phil Thomas, sharpie
mikej 04/Jul/76 Lead dnf

On the first pitch I inserted the key runner, a small wedge on wire.

with Bill Church
mikej 04/Jul/76 2nd

Donated a peg to the first belay at the grassy ledge.

with Bill Church
petemeads ?/Jul/75 Lead O/S

One of the braver leads from the summer that lead to a breakthrough in our climbing standard.

with Mick Brady
Paul Clarke ??/1975 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 30
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set