A popular route which makes the most of the broad rib at the left end of the crag. Start on the left-hand side of the buttress.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb up a slim groove and make a hard pull up onto a break. Head rightwards across this to a memorable final traverse right onto a ledge on the nose.
2) 4b, 20m. Move up the right-hand side of the rib and step left into a small crack. Head up towards a tower. Balancy moves over this lead to easier moves towards a crack. Finish up the short crack. The belay is well back on the large tree.
3) 30m. Move right along the ledge and climb an easy slab to the left of a vegetated bay. At the top of the slab, step right into the bay and move diagonally across it to the top-right corner. Climb the crack above to a tree and then follow a final crack and slabs to the top. © Rockfax
The Tremadog 'V's' , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Solos , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 50 more great HS routes , North Wales Summer 21'
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