Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A tremendous route. It is a bit eliminate in its lower section, but finishes in a wild position on the headwall. Start up and right of Vector, below a wide corner.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb the groove above to the massive spike on Vector pitch 2 and belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Join Vector and climb it through the Ochre Slab. At its top, pull right round a corner to a ledge. Move up right and climb a hidden crack to a sloping ledge belay below a pod.
3) 6a, 18m. Climb into the hanging pod with difficulty and pull out left at the top. A long reach up gains the crack which is climbed with even more difficulty. Keep going up the crack and another on the right to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the groove to the right of Vector to the spike belay of Vector. Climb the Ochre Slab to its top then move right to a short steep crack leading to a sloping ledge belay under the pod (can be done in 1 pitch). Pull steeply into the pod and at its top exit left to a jug. Pull up the wall past a peg then keep going up easier, but still pumpy cracks.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , The Tremadog 'V's' , North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Caelan visits , Definitive *** Tremadog , Big Ron routes for mortals , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| spidey | 14 Jun, 2015 |
Show βeta
βeta: got lucky! thank god for the hand jam/ finger lock! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: got lucky! thank god for the hand jam/ finger lock! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Fingerlicker
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))