UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 6 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest on the main crag and the restriction covers the whole crag. If the birds fail to nest or fledge early then the restriction wil be lifted early and noted here.

 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route. Start by the corner/groove that makes up the left side of the The Boulder.
1) 4a 14m. Climb the corner to the top of The Boulder.
2) 4b, 33m. Back-and-foot rightwards across the gap and then step onto the slab. Move up and right across the slab to the wide crack below an overlap. Move up and right around this. Step right around an overlap to reach a vegetated groove. This can be reached more directly as well. Cross the groove and traverse below the top overhang to a hanging groove. Gain this from the left and follow it to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Named "The Boulder Way" when this route was claimed as the first to conquer the upper sections of the cliff in 1958, hence the naming of other routes (The Bolder Way, Scrub Way etc), it was then found to have been climbed 5 years earlier, and so lost the name! The Nurgler is now regarded as the classic of the crag, and completes the route originally attempted (see Gull's Nest Crack) in 1930.

1] 12m 4a
Gull's Nest Crack

2] 33m 4b
Mind the gap, and step onto the slabby wall under the overhang. Ascend to the roof, and traverse rightwards past two awkward hanging ribs to a groove/shallow chimney. Climb this for 6m then move left onto the slab. This time pass leftwards under the upper overhang to another groove and climb this to the top.

2a] 32m
As for p2 but move left from the chimney to an exposed traverse 3m along the lip of the roof. Climb up the exposed slab to join p2 at the second overhang.

R James, CT Jones (p2a - J Appleby, D Craig Jul 1996) 1953.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Route of Interest
The Quarryboy

Grade: VS 4a ***
(Nantlle Valley)

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