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Rockfax Description
Another stunning classic with sustained difficulties and breath-taking exposure at the grade. Care is needed to protect the second adequately on the devious and exposed crux pitch..
1) 4b, 12m. Climb up to the left side of the large grassy ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay beneath the flakes and corner.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb the wall above the belay to gain the base of the large corner system. Follow this until a hand-traverse line leads rightwards along the highest of two parallel ledges to a tough step-down. Follow an easing diagonal line rightwards to an awkward semi-hanging stance.
3) 4c, 18m. Drop down rightwards from the stance and head right again under the roof to reach a ledge. Climb up and left, past an arete, to gain a grassy stance.
4) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove above to gain the short cracked wall. Climb the crack. © Rockfax


The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, The V.S.+ Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, The Big Easy Mountain Route Club, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, 2020 Trips, Hard Rock & Other Classics


User Date Notes
Jules Lane 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Recommend abbing in from top of Pinnacle Wall. Much easier and lands you close to correct start point.
Show beta
βeta: Recommend abbing in from top of Pinnacle Wall. Much easier and lands you close to correct start point.

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Noah's Warning

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Dinas Cromlech)