Rockfax Description
One of the defining trad lines of the country, and a milestone in every British climber's career. Follow the striking open-book corner with increasing difficulty to a tough crux right at the top. An ancient peg sits below the final hard section - it is wise to back this up! . © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the corner!
J Brown D Belshaw 1952.
Hard Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , UK Extreme Corners , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Memorable Climbs , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Michelle's crack ticklist , 2019 Targets , UK Holiday Plans , University of Exeter must tick's , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Rock 2020 , Definitive *** Llanberis , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Big Boy Pants , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 35 By 35 , 2021 , N Wales 2021 , Big Pitches , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , UK Trad , Wales Trip - 2022 , Year 2 ticklist , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Llidberis , Dream lines , Cheesemen to Piddlybonk , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , North Wales isnt just slate apparently , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Cianchi's Hit List , Most Popular First E1 , Weird Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist climbs (2024) , The Biscuit Dunkers 2025 list of routes to be done , Get good enough for Walker Spur , RCIAIS CCH100 , Squamish 2026 road to Grand Wall , E1 tickilist , TLMC Highlights , Quality , Before Uni Ends , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gwinn512 | 14 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Brand new green nut in the crux for the taking (will need a rock). Or just clip it, it\'s certified to take a whipper :D | ||
Show beta
βeta: Brand new green nut in the crux for the taking (will need a rock). Or just clip it, it's certified to take a whipper :D |
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storm_of_insanity | 10 May |
Show βeta
βeta: The pegs have snapped off now but there is an in-situ nut above where the peg used to be. There\'s also a placement for a number 1 nut close to where the peg is at the bottom of the crux | ||
Show beta
βeta: The pegs have snapped off now but there is an in-situ nut above where the peg used to be. There's also a placement for a number 1 nut close to where the peg is at the bottom of the crux |
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Kiddie68 | 5 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Proper fight to stay on from Pod to top. Fantastic climbing up to there, then it turns nasty! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Proper fight to stay on from Pod to top. Fantastic climbing up to there, then it turns nasty! |
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c.phillips1992 | 28 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: Mate took a whip at the crux and unfortunately snapped the piton in the process. Small green wire to side left behind, couldn't get it out. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Mate took a whip at the crux and unfortunately snapped the piton in the process. Small green wire to side left behind, couldn't get it out. |
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ledburyjosh | 31 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure about the peg. Seems unnecessary to use this. There is a great placement for a no4 brass offset just above it, which is bomber. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Not sure about the peg. Seems unnecessary to use this. There is a great placement for a no4 brass offset just above it, which is bomber. |
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Tall Oak | 1 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Intimidating place. Felt unsure about belay place. Nut your gear to the wall where convenient. Small cam to back up the rusty peg. Didn't fall on the peg so cannot establish the condition of this. Got up there but with moments of terror. I am not a trad climber! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Intimidating place. Felt unsure about belay place. Nut your gear to the wall where convenient. Small cam to back up the rusty peg. Didn't fall on the peg so cannot establish the condition of this. Got up there but with moments of terror. I am not a trad climber! |
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Zhi Yuan | 21 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Watched the leader of the pair on the route before us take a considerable whip at the crux. His tiny micro-cam popped and the peg, which he had clipped, held. Though once you get up there and see the peg, you'll want to protect it with something else. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Watched the leader of the pair on the route before us take a considerable whip at the crux. His tiny micro-cam popped and the peg, which he had clipped, held. Though once you get up there and see the peg, you'll want to protect it with something else. |
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AidanKuhlmann | 27 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The peg can still hold a small fall - my cam in the slot (it was super wet) above popped while resting and the peg held! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The peg can still hold a small fall - my cam in the slot (it was super wet) above popped while resting and the peg held! |
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Paulos87 | 4 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fairly nice pocket/layback snapped off in my hand from right wall about halfway up. The hold is probably down near Cromlech Boulders is someone wants to glue it back on... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Fairly nice pocket/layback snapped off in my hand from right wall about halfway up. The hold is probably down near Cromlech Boulders is someone wants to glue it back on... |
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Guy Bennell | 21 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: At long last! It took 40 years | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: At long last! It took 40 years |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))