Quite simply one of the best pitches in Britain; good gear, great climbing and an amazing position. It is also one of the most fallen-off climbs in the Pass due to overenthusiastic leaders going for it when they aren't quite ready. Fire up the initial steep crack, passing a surprisingly tricky move where the crack dog-legs right. Eventually gain a semi-rest below the grand finale - the leftward-slanting thin crack. Follow this, fighting the growing pump, to a line of slightly-crumbly juggy flakes leading horizontally left to the arete. Finish more easily up the arete. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An aspirational climb which defies most superlatives. One of the best routes of its grade in the country. Protection is superb, even at the top section provided you are strong enough to place it. Approach the vertical crack from the right and, after a tricky start, follow it without difficulty to an awkward section where it bends diagonally right. From a good rest, lace the soaring white crack with runners, take stock and make progressively hard moves until a line of ricketty flakes leads leftwards to the arete. Those with enough stamina in reserve might consider finishing the last 4m direct at E3 5c.
Ron Moseley 06/May/1956.
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