An outstanding old classic which is still a fantastic, exciting and technical route today with run-out slabs and a burly groove.
1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire. Make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney using the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop. Climb this and go right to a mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then a stance.
4) 5a, 10m. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a 'brute force and ignorance' approach. © Rockfax
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