Rockfax Description
An outstanding old classic which is still a fantastic, exciting and technical route today with run-out slabs and a burly groove.
1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire. Make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney using the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop. Climb this and go right to a mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then a stance.
4) 5a, 10m. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a 'brute force and ignorance' approach. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic that isn't as bold or run-out with the use of micro wires.

1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire. Make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney using the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop. Climb this and go right to a mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then a stance.

4a) 4c (Original from 1938) 10m. Move up into the corner and stand on the first spike. Make moves up and right to go around on the arete and climb diagonally right on the face, the left to finish.

4b) 5a (Variation from 1946), 10m. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a 'brute force and ignorance' approach.

Ticklists

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