Rockfax Description
A fantastic, exciting and technical route.
1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire, and then make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney with the help of the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop, follow this and go right to a bold mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then onto a stance.
4) 4c, 15m. The main corner above is much tougher than it looks. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a brute-force-and-ignorance approach. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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featuresforfeet | 5 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Lead all 4 pitches; 1. Fine, gear sparse but adequate 2. Didn’t find any gear from belay to roof; potential for a whipper straight onto belay 3. Got 2 size 1 nuts and a peanut in before the mantle, definitely bold though not super hard 4. More like 5b than 4c; Brandt Direct the day before was considerably easier | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead all 4 pitches; 1. Fine, gear sparse but adequate 2. Didn’t find any gear from belay to roof; potential for a whipper straight onto belay 3. Got 2 size 1 nuts and a peanut in before the mantle, definitely bold though not super hard 4. More like 5b than 4c; Brandt Direct the day before was considerably easier |
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Rowan Page | 4 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Don't recommend first two pitches in a 1er | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't recommend first two pitches in a 1er |
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tbm | 2 Jun, 2018 |
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βeta: Top pitch is nails | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top pitch is nails |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))