UKC

91m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the finest unknown gems in the Pass. The roof on pitch three is similar to Flying Buttress Direct at Stanage. Start by scrambling up the gully and exiting right onto a grassy ledge.
1) 5a, 30m. Go diagonally right up to a bulge. Move over this and continue up and right over a slab to a ledge below a flake/corner. Climb straight up the crack to a tree belay on the rake.
2) 15m. Stroll left to The Mole belay.
3) 5b, 33m. The money pitch. Climb the slab diagonally right until the overhanging groove becomes a roof. Carry on traversing right to below a juggy weakness. Power through the overhang on good holds in a sensational position. Trend slightly left to reach a shallow groove. Climb this to the belay shared with The Mole.
4) 4b, 27m. Traverse right across a slab below another overlap, to a fine exposed finish up a juggy arete to a belay. Then scramble off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fine route with a spectacular overhang on its second pitch. Start up a shallow groove up the lower walls and slabby groove under the overhangs of Mole.
1. 30mts. 5a. Go diagonally right up to and over a bulge. Climb slabs to a ledge below a flake crack., Follow crack to a tree belay on the rake of Troglodyte Wall. Stroll 15 mts over to Mole belay.
2. 34mts. 5b. Climb the slab diagonally right for 9 mts. Power up the overhang on good holds in a sensational position. Climb a shallow groove, move left and go up to the belay, above P2 of Mole.
3. 27mts. 4b. Traverse right across a slab, to an enjoyable finish up the exposed juggy arete to a belay. Scrambling remains.

B C Webb, A Harris, V Cowley 27/Mar/1964.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , High Quality Adventure routes , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Tolkien route names , Middle Earth Climbs , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lot's Groove

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Glyder Fach)

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