UKC Logbook - 'Western Slabs'

60m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A handsome route that gets the evening sun in the height of summer. Start just left of the dry-stone wall by a stile.
1) 4b, 16m. Move up onto the quartz block and go up a short distance into a small groove. Follow the groove slightly rightwards to a ledge. Move up to another smaller ledge with awkward belays.
2) 4b, 23m. Move up the slab to the lower of two overlaps. Pass both overlaps on their right to reach a groove which is followed to another large ledge.
3) 4c, 17m. Move left along the ledge then diagonally left across a slab to another ledge below a wall with a crack up its centre - this is The Chain. Climb the groove on the right-hand side of the tombstone to a block, then make hard moves to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , Quality , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025

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User	Date		Notes
C Rettiw	1 Sep, 2024	Show βeta βeta: On pitch 2, the guide seems to suggest traversing right to bypass both overlaps on their right. However, we bypassed first overlap on its right, then stepped back left above this to climb the thin slab above to gain the groove. It goes at about VS 4c, and the rock today seemed cleaner than continuing rightward around the second overlap. Abseil down the east gully is recommended, as west gully is dank, twisting and long. If you do go down the western gully, consider splitting at the intermediate ab point, to get a nice clean rope pull.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: On pitch 2, the guide seems to suggest traversing right to bypass both overlaps on their right. However, we bypassed first overlap on its right, then stepped back left above this to climb the thin slab above to gain the groove. It goes at about VS 4c, and the rock today seemed cleaner than continuing rightward around the second overlap. Abseil down the east gully is recommended, as west gully is dank, twisting and long. If you do go down the western gully, consider splitting at the intermediate ab point, to get a nice clean rope pull.
PeteColdham	11 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: P2, Our guidebook said go right of the overlap then traverse past the next one. Note that it means traverse right! Both directions were a bit mossy and I went left running it out massively all the way to another route I think.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: P2, Our guidebook said go right of the overlap then traverse past the next one. Note that it means traverse right! Both directions were a bit mossy and I went left running it out massively all the way to another route I think.
Frank Blakeley	20 Jun, 2011	Show βeta βeta: great climbing throughout...	βeta?
Show beta βeta: great climbing throughout...