An intimidating gully wall climb that needs dry conditions and care with the rock on its two upper pitches. Start in Great Gully at a large boulder/pinnacle.
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle then make a committing pull up left to a corner and ledge. Do not be tempted to go left before standing on the pinnacle.
2) 5a, 9m. Take the smooth corner to a ledge and belay.
3) 5b, 10m. Move out right and up a difficult wall and corner (next to a dog-leg crack) to a stance.
4) 4b, 20m. Work up right then left past large blocks to a stance and belay under a big corner/groove.
5) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove and corner to below an overhang, then take a crack out leftwards to finish. Scrambling remains to gain the top of the buttress. © Rockfax
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