UKC

Rockfax Description
An intimidating gully wall climb that needs dry conditions and care with the rock on its two upper pitches. Start in Great Gully at a large boulder/pinnacle.
1) 5b, 14m. Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle then make a committing pull up left to a corner and ledge. Do not be tempted to go left before standing on the pinnacle.
2) 5a, 9m. Take the smooth corner to a ledge and belay.
3) 5b, 10m. Move out right and up a difficult wall and corner (next to a dog-leg crack) to a stance.
4) 4b, 20m. Work up right then left past large blocks to a stance and belay under a big corner/groove.
5) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove and corner to below an overhang, then take a crack out leftwards to finish. Scrambling remains to gain the top of the buttress. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Les Brown Lake District routes, A Lakeland E2 Odyssey

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User Date Notes
Lankcroft 19 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock really wasn't that much of a problem for us, and for me wouldn't be a reason not to do this route. That said we did get it dry after 2 days of sun. P4 is basically the only loose slightly loose bit, but it's really not that bad. If you can climb the E2 on pitches 1, 2 & 3 you will have absolutely no trouble.
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock really wasn't that much of a problem for us, and for me wouldn't be a reason not to do this route. That said we did get it dry after 2 days of sun. P4 is basically the only loose slightly loose bit, but it's really not that bad. If you can climb the E2 on pitches 1, 2 & 3 you will have absolutely no trouble.
Tony Marr 1 Jan, 1970 Show βeta
βeta: I led the first two pitches with Ken. Bill was hot on our heels until his second failed to follow! We joined forces with Bill leading through to the top. Really enjoyed the climbing and non-stop banter, good memories. We believe this was the 5th ascent!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I led the first two pitches with Ken. Bill was hot on our heels until his second failed to follow! We joined forces with Bill leading through to the top. Really enjoyed the climbing and non-stop banter, good memories. We believe this was the 5th ascent!

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 30
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Bleak How Buttress

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Upper Langstrath Valley)
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