Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!


Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

45m, 2 pitches. A tiring and technical start leads to a wild excursion up the arête between Yellow Wall and Steam Train. Start as for Steam Train.
1) 6b, 33m. Follow the groove of Steam Train to the roof. Continue direct up the overhanging grey groove (peg runner) and reach the main rising break (junction with Steam Train). Pull into the groove of Steam Train, then swing left into a bottomless groove. Climb the groove (peg runner) to gain a break above in the arête. Ignore the rightward escape and make two long moves up the final arête to the Yellow Wall belay ledge.
2) 5b, 12m. Climb the cracks and flakes towards the right-hand side of the back wall to the top.

M. Crocker 05/Oct/1991.


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Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
The Sistine Ceiling

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)

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