Rockfax Description
An unrelenting initial pitch that tackles the line of steep grooves and corners between Yellow Wall and Transformer.
1) 6a, 33m. Step off a boulder and climb a series of corner grooves to below an overhang. Traverse 3m right and take another series of grooves to a belay on a good ledge.
2) 5b, 14m. Head up right and around onto a red slab. Move into the corner of Transformer and then after 1m go left to another groove that is followed to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This takes the narrow groove and crack right of Yellow Wall. Start at a large boulder 1m right of Yellow Wall.
1) 6a, 33m. Step right from the boulder and follow a shallow groove with a red left wall to the overhangs. Traverse right 3m and step up to another groove. Move up deviously to reach a horizontal break and a ledge.
2) 5b, 12m. From the right end of the ledge, traverse rightwards around the arete to gain a red slab which is traversed to a groove (Transformer). Move up the groove 1m, then traverse left to another short groove that leads to the top. A direct finish climbs from the ledge up the middle of the wall above at 6a.
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Grade: E4 ***
(Dinas Rock)