UKC

Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

This takes the narrow groove and crack right of Yellow Wall. Start at a large boulder 1m right of Yellow Wall.
1) 6a, 33m. Step right from the boulder and follow a shallow groove with a red left wall to the overhangs. Traverse right 3m and step up to another groove. Move up deviously to reach a horizontal break and a ledge.
2) 5b, 12m. From the right end of the ledge, traverse rightwards around the arete to gain a red slab which is traversed to a groove (Transformer). Move up the groove 1m, then traverse left to another short groove that leads to the top. A direct finish climbs from the ledge up the middle of the wall above at 6a.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Spain

Grade: E4 ***
(Dinas Rock)

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