UKC

Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

Rockfax Description
An absolute classic climb taking the striking line in the centre of the crag. Climb up the corner to a cave below the line of capping overhangs. Traverse right to a smaller cave before pulling through the overhang at its weakest point and finishing to the left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the long obvious corner in the middle of the cliff with a variety of techniques right up to the overhangs, traverse right past a cave (possible belay) and climb through the weakest point in the overhangs. Finish trending leftwards slightly. Low in the grade.

Ticklists

Gower S-HVS *+ , Orange Spot Gower , CUMC Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Welcome to CUMC , Jimbo 2024 , Gower Classic Rock , Gower

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 11 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Love the swallowing of loads of chunky gear. Nice way to finish too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Love the swallowing of loads of chunky gear. Nice way to finish too.
brownhenley 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: We climbed this route in Scotch mist and found some holds near the roof to be slippery. The rest of the route had wonderful friction and maybe the tufa-like holds under the roof would be fine in dry weather.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We climbed this route in Scotch mist and found some holds near the roof to be slippery. The rest of the route had wonderful friction and maybe the tufa-like holds under the roof would be fine in dry weather.

Logged Ascents

511 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 95 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 84
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Assassin

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Third Sister to Zulu Zawn)

Loading Notifications...