Restricted Access
Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
An impressive brute of a route. Begin at a slim groove right of Transformer.
1) 6b, 20m. Take the groove past a peg to a break. Head up the overhanging right wall (peg) to a shallow groove (thread) which leads to good holds. Move up leftwards (peg) on steep ground to reach overhung ledges (peg). Powerful moves past a bulge (thread) access a break (thread). Continue past another break to a peg belay.
2) 6b, 20m. Ascend the shallow groove above and then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall (peg and thread) to good holds. Finish awkwardly. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A thuggish route of the highest quality. Start at a slim groove between Transformer and Yellow Regeneration.
1) 6b. 20m. Climb the groove, PR, to a break, then cross the overhanging right wall, PR, into a shallow groove, TR, leading to good holds. Swing up leftwards, PR, through overhanging rock to gain overhung ledges, PR. Power through a bulge, TR, to reach a break, TR. Climb past another break to a PB.
2) 6b, 20m. Climb a shallow groove above, old BR, then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall, PR, TR, to good jugs. Finish awkwardly.
G.Gibson, R.Thomas 15/Oct/1989.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade
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The Sistine Ceiling
Grade: E6 6c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)