40m, 2 pitches.
A thuggish route of the highest quality. Start at a slim groove between Transformer and Yellow Regeneration.
1) 6b. 20m. Climb the groove, PR, to a break, then cross the overhanging right wall, PR, into a shallow groove, TR, leading to good holds. Swing up leftwards, PR, through overhanging rock to gain overhung ledges, PR. Power through a bulge, TR, to reach a break, TR. Climb past another break to a PB.
2) 6b, 20m. Climb a shallow groove above, old BR, then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall, PR, TR, to good jugs. Finish awkwardly.
1) 6b. 20m. Climb the groove, PR, to a break, then cross the overhanging right wall, PR, into a shallow groove, TR, leading to good holds. Swing up leftwards, PR, through overhanging rock to gain overhung ledges, PR. Power through a bulge, TR, to reach a break, TR. Climb past another break to a PB.
2) 6b, 20m. Climb a shallow groove above, old BR, then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall, PR, TR, to good jugs. Finish awkwardly.
G.Gibson, R.Thomas 15/Oct/1989.
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Route of Interest
Shock and Awe
Grade: E6 6c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)