Rockfax Description
6b, S1. Memorable. A fine climb in a very atmospheric position. Start by traversing in along the break to a niche just before the cave. Continue up past another corner and across slabs until stopped by a wall. Go round the rib and bridge out and up the chimney. Keep bridging, then pull out left and up to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe 7.9.1969. FFA. Frank Farrell 9.1979. First soloed by Nick Buckley 26.6.1983.
Ticklists
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Hard water , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , Dorset DWS progression , Extreme Girdle , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , 33 By 33 , South West Coast Traversing ticklist , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , South England DWS Dreams , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jim blackford | 23 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: 6c or tough 6b+ now the foothold has gone on the crux. Did it eventually with finger locks. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 6c or tough 6b+ now the foothold has gone on the crux. Did it eventually with finger locks. |
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| Old Danny | 12 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Found the traddy 3D bridgey start tough, indoor/face climbers will struggle. Large chunk from bottom of the nose crux has gone, so no feet to step around on. One small polished foot hold and very thin fingers on side. No idea how to get around after that. Seriously doubt its 6b anymore unless very very lanky and can reach a potential good hand hold around corner. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Found the traddy 3D bridgey start tough, indoor/face climbers will struggle. Large chunk from bottom of the nose crux has gone, so no feet to step around on. One small polished foot hold and very thin fingers on side. No idea how to get around after that. Seriously doubt its 6b anymore unless very very lanky and can reach a potential good hand hold around corner. |
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| Andy Hemsted | 20 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: I climbed The Conger years ago with the use of the foothold that has now gone. Blake climbed it on Saturday (I got nowhere on the crux), and in my opinion it looks at least a grade harder than it used to be. I'd think F6b+ at least. High 5c British Technical Grade? PS The splash-zone is still perfect..... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I climbed The Conger years ago with the use of the foothold that has now gone. Blake climbed it on Saturday (I got nowhere on the crux), and in my opinion it looks at least a grade harder than it used to be. I'd think F6b+ at least. High 5c British Technical Grade? PS The splash-zone is still perfect..... |
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| plant_based_tommo | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: at least 6b+ maybe 6c in anything less than perfect connies. | βeta? | |
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βeta: at least 6b+ maybe 6c in anything less than perfect connies. |
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| Sophie Nunn | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: A section of the crux block has come off but it hasnt altered the climb thankfully | βeta? | |
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βeta: A section of the crux block has come off but it hasnt altered the climb thankfully |
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| David Dickinson | 24 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Felt scarier and harder than FBM, amazing finish, will do this one again! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt scarier and harder than FBM, amazing finish, will do this one again! |
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| rustaldo | 3 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Possible loss of crucial foothold / bottom of the block has fallen away. I'm not super familiar with the area but have climbed the route previously (I have fallen off the crux too) - My memory was that you had to swap feet on a small square-ish foothold on the outer bottom corner of the crux hanging slab - that foothold and roughly an 10-12inch cube shaped block is now on the seabed it would seem. Someone with better knowledge should confirm though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Possible loss of crucial foothold / bottom of the block has fallen away. I'm not super familiar with the area but have climbed the route previously (I have fallen off the crux too) - My memory was that you had to swap feet on a small square-ish foothold on the outer bottom corner of the crux hanging slab - that foothold and roughly an 10-12inch cube shaped block is now on the seabed it would seem. Someone with better knowledge should confirm though. |
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| Sash.C | 24 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: A classic route which eveyone should have a go at! definitley 3 stars! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A classic route which eveyone should have a go at! definitley 3 stars! |
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| Paul B | 16 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: Great Climb, did the crux completely wrong but managed to hang in there...excellent, perfect position. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great Climb, did the crux completely wrong but managed to hang in there...excellent, perfect position. |
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| philhilo | 7 May, 2002 |
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βeta: Superb route as a dws. Thought it was very soft touch but if everyone else thinks it is middle of the grade then who am i to disagree. Cant wait to get down to connor with the lads. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb route as a dws. Thought it was very soft touch but if everyone else thinks it is middle of the grade then who am i to disagree. Cant wait to get down to connor with the lads. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Fisherman's Ledge
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Ixtlan
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cave Hole)