UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The imposing corner-crack can be laybacked or thrutched, although hidden holds (and big cams) help. At the top, exit right up the wall. Hard work and high in the grade. The wall under the slanting groove up and left gives an extension at E2 5c. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Peak District Grit Graded List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Marie45 30 May Show βeta
βeta: Looked at this route today. It is very green & there is a large bird nest about half way up with bird droppings down the rock face from the nest. Couldn’t hear or see any chicks but gave the route a miss as it is unclear if the nest is in use. With the state of the route, I’m not sure I would have given it a try if the bird nest wasn’t in situ! Pretty rotten looking.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looked at this route today. It is very green & there is a large bird nest about half way up with bird droppings down the rock face from the nest. Couldn’t hear or see any chicks but gave the route a miss as it is unclear if the nest is in use. With the state of the route, I’m not sure I would have given it a try if the bird nest wasn’t in situ! Pretty rotten looking.
GermanAlex 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Currently (21/05/19) two bird's nests en route, the top one will probably require removal from the top before the route is climbable again. On the positive side, the fragrant sheep's carcass I discovered here last year is now reduced to bleached bones.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Currently (21/05/19) two bird's nests en route, the top one will probably require removal from the top before the route is climbable again. On the positive side, the fragrant sheep's carcass I discovered here last year is now reduced to bleached bones.
Rushy 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Disagree with thuggery - bold lay backing unless you've got big friends. I didn't and it felt v bold for VS. A good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Disagree with thuggery - bold lay backing unless you've got big friends. I didn't and it felt v bold for VS. A good route.
sheffieldchris 23 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: animals only need aply for this climb forget style tecnique finess just thug your way through all the hard bits. that must have been the way Joe Brown originaly did it not my idea of VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: animals only need aply for this climb forget style tecnique finess just thug your way through all the hard bits. that must have been the way Joe Brown originaly did it not my idea of VS
curly8 6 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very good indeed - the crux (I think) is higher than I thought, though the lower wide crack feels pokey as well! Good gear though, and best done after a dry spell...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good indeed - the crux (I think) is higher than I thought, though the lower wide crack feels pokey as well! Good gear though, and best done after a dry spell...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 64
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Golden Yardstick

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wildcat)
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