UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Another of the classic E3 routes at Gardom's. Climb the slabby arete to the right of the cave and lean out to reach a good jug. A gut-wrenching mantel gains the upper wall just right of the rib, which proves to be more delicate and bold. © Rockfax

FFA. Dave Morgan 1976. FAA. Pete Biven 1956. Biven reached the mantelshelf using tension, though the moves were done free. The route then zig-zagged up the final buttress all the way out to Moyer's and back!.

Ticklists

Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Gardoms Big 5 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Joe Costello 3 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Similar to above - tried this on a hot day and the mantel felt at least 6a. Three 6b climbers couldn't even do the move! Upper wall protection is worse than moyers and has some evil slopers. Not one for a warm summers day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Similar to above - tried this on a hot day and the mantel felt at least 6a. Three 6b climbers couldn't even do the move! Upper wall protection is worse than moyers and has some evil slopers. Not one for a warm summers day.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Arabia

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

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