UKC

Restricted Access

Ownership of the combe is divided between Avon Wildlife Trust (who own the eastern section) and the charitable trust Groundworks South (who own the western section where the majority of the crags are located). The Landowner does not allow climbing on the crags. If climbers do decide to visit and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely and as quickly as is safely possible.

Be aware that there are frequently loose blocks at the top of the smaller buttresses - a cautious approach is advised. As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the signs are removed.

Rockfax Description
A protectable finger crack midway is the highlight of this pitch. On the far left of the crag is a tall section of rock with a large crack on its left. Head up the wide crack and take the right-hand branch of the two similar looking lines on the wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Tolkien route names , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , 2021 , Dances with Goblins , Middle Earth Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 16 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a lot of detached rock near the top after the crux. Agree that this and Shagrat are both E1 5b. A little stiff but not too bad. A tree-tat abseil point can be found wandering rightwards (looking in) and slightly downwards about 20m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a lot of detached rock near the top after the crux. Agree that this and Shagrat are both E1 5b. A little stiff but not too bad. A tree-tat abseil point can be found wandering rightwards (looking in) and slightly downwards about 20m.

Logged Ascents

178 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Goblin Combe

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Earl of Perth

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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