A superb route that enables the brilliant pitch of the hard route Free Stone Henge, E7 to be reached at a more amenable grade.
1) 5c, 40m. Follow Atlantis until 7m below the ledge. From here climb horizontally right above the roof to reach an exhilarating position on the arete. Swing around this and continue along the break until the corner is reached. Breathe, then traverse right to a belay next to a cluster of rotting ironmongery on the slab.
2) 5c, 20m. Traverse right and prepare yourself for the exposure that is about to follow. Move up into the corner, then undercut your way to glory - a truly outrageous pitch for the grade.
3) 5b, 30m. Trend up and slightly right to a cave. Move through this and climb the steep crack above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1. Climb the first corner pitch of Atlantis untill 7 metres below the ledge, then follow the first obvious traverse line above the roof towards the arete. Belay just before the arete (shallow cams and small wires).
2. Climb around the arete and hand traverse across the leaning wall into the corner, step down for a move or two and then right again onto the slab. Continue traversing to a belay.
3 and 4. Traverse right across the slab and join Free Stone Henge.
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