Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Summer 2022
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
Rockfax Description
A superb route that enables the brilliant pitch of the hard route Free Stonehenge to be reached at a more amenable grade.
1) 5c, 40m. Follow Atlantis until 7m below the ledge. From here climb horizontally right above the roof to reach an exhilarating position on the arete. Swing around this and continue along the break until the corner is reached. Breathe, then traverse right to a belay next to a cluster of rotting ironmongery on the slab.
2) 6a, 20m. Traverse right and prepare yourself for the exposure that is about to follow. Move up into the corner, then undercut your way to glory - a truly outrageous pitch for the grade.
3) 5b, 30m. Trend up and slightly right to a cave. Move through this and climb the steep crack above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1. Climb the first corner pitch of Atlantis untill 7 metres below the ledge, then follow the first obvious traverse line above the roof towards the arete. Belay just before the arete (shallow cams and small wires).
2. Climb around the arete and hand traverse across the leaning wall into the corner, step down for a move or two and then right again onto the slab. Continue traversing to a belay.
3 and 4. Traverse right across the slab and join Free Stone Henge.
Ticklists
James' 2015 Summer. , Gogarth life list , Extreme Girdle
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| J B Oughton | 17 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Few bits of advice, mostly just echoing what's already been said in previous logs. Would recommend taking a stance in the Atlantis corner, level with the traverse line, instead of doing the first two pitches in a one-er as per Rockfax description - you wouldn't want to be doing the moves around the arete and into the corner with any rope drag. Would also recommend taking a stance just above the roof of the 'undercut' pitch, to avoid the ropes getting stuck in the exit groove - you can still make it to the top in one from here. If it's been wet all recently, it might be worth saving till the afternoon as the section under the roof doesn't get much sun until later, and it can be quite damp and greasy where you don't want it to be. Lastly, goes without saying but all members of the party should be confident at E4! On both of the hard pitches, there's a lot of traversing, some downclimbing, and lots of times when a fall would leave you dangling in space! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Few bits of advice, mostly just echoing what's already been said in previous logs. Would recommend taking a stance in the Atlantis corner, level with the traverse line, instead of doing the first two pitches in a one-er as per Rockfax description - you wouldn't want to be doing the moves around the arete and into the corner with any rope drag. Would also recommend taking a stance just above the roof of the 'undercut' pitch, to avoid the ropes getting stuck in the exit groove - you can still make it to the top in one from here. If it's been wet all recently, it might be worth saving till the afternoon as the section under the roof doesn't get much sun until later, and it can be quite damp and greasy where you don't want it to be. Lastly, goes without saying but all members of the party should be confident at E4! On both of the hard pitches, there's a lot of traversing, some downclimbing, and lots of times when a fall would leave you dangling in space! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack
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The Maze
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)