UKC

90m, 3 pitches. A wild quest through the left hand side of the large overhangs. Tasty.
Access the slabby platform ledges down and right of Atlantis p1 corner, directly below the left hand end of the large overhangs. The highest tides and biggest swells will affect the start, but mostly easy access.
1. 4c. Climb the V-groove and juggy breaks trending right slightly upto a small roof. Take a horizontal break rightward and turn the roof. Belay on the slabby ledges above.
2. 6b. Move up the slabby corner to its top (old peg), traverse horizontally across the steep wall just below the roof, out to the arete. Move up into the corner above (crux) and get established there. Continue up the corner to its top and the next overhang. Take the obvious juggy traverse horizontally left to another arete (reversing Hanging Out At Glastonbury). Climb the wall just left of the arete to a large horizontal break (possible belay (hanging)), which is followed rightward to easier ground and ledges.
3. 5b/c. Take the broad open slabby ramp rightward until below the obvious undercut open groove (this is just left of the last pitch of Kalahari). Make a tricky pull off jugs to turn the overhang (peg), then follow the groove steeply to the top.

Stevie Haston, Martin Crook 1981.

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Caff's 100 Ace E5s

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Heart of Gold Direct

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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