Rockfax Description
Two brilliant pitches up the centre of the attractive golden wall. There is some seepage and is covered in guano at the start of the season. Start at a ledge, 6m above the sea.
1) 5c, 37m. Climb easily up the wall for 6m and go over a slight bulge to a reddish band. Go through this to a horizontal break, then climb rightwards until the higher break can be gained. Move back left to a crack in the roof - poor peg. Pull over the roof and quickly layback up to a good ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 37m. Make harder moves up left to gain a large niche. Weave up the wall heading for a sentry box. Exit it onto the slab - bold. Continue carefully up the wall. Go slightly left to a peg belay in a chimney.
3) 4c, 15m. Climb the unprotected arete and belay well back. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)