Rockfax Description
A quality route through the big roofs. Good gear and solid rock with the hard climbing being short lived. Approach from the Castell Helen abseil - p.380 - and traverse right (looking in) to some sloping ledges below the large roofs.
1) 4b, 20m. Go up the arete of the small groove to a break. Move right to a ledge then walk right to belay below a prow/arete on the right. Take care to protect your second.
2) 5c, 45m. Move up the right side of the slab. Steep and technical moves right lead around the prow and onto a wall. Gain and follow the slanting crack right to a fine position on the blunt arete. Climb the run-out groove above easy slabs to belay beneath the headwall. Be wary of rope drag on this pitch.
3) 5b, 28m. Climb onto a large block from the left and tackle the strenuous but well-protected crack above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , UK Lonely Leads , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , Gogarth life list

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