A great route that up the left arete of the crag. Abseil to a triangular niche over to the left (looking in) as you descend.
1) 4a, 20m. From the niche, traverse left across easy terrain to a square-cut groove, with a small ledge at its top. Climb up to a break and traverse left to the arete. Move up to a good stance.
2) 4b, 22m. Climb direct to gain a slab leading to a roof (optional belay). Make committing moves to enter a corner. Climb this, and the wall on the left, to a ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 35m. Climb the groove then go up right to a ledge on the arete. Move right and continue to another ledge (optional belay). Make an awkward move through a step. Trend right to the abseil. © Rockfax
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