UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
The direct version is slightly harder. Start at the triangular niche.
1) 4c, 32m. Move left along the easy traverse and, near its end, head directly up to a break-line and traverse this to a crack. Climb the crack direct to below the roof, and follow Lighthouse Arete to the belay on a ledge.
2) 4a, 35m. As for Lighthouse Arete P3. © Rockfax

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Emile.swain 3 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: My first sea cliff climb. Abb’d off to the triangular niche following a convenient edge at an angle to descend on the left side of another group. Easy to see the 1st pitch route from the start.. loverly climb, lots of places to rest and place gear, A very easy VS. Looks a little steep but we’ll protected. 2nd pitch I think we took an alternate route, at the belay felt like we should have ascended directly up, but we went left instead . Which incidentally was chossy wet garbage slab. Sometimes hard to tell from the image and guide description. Awesome climb,
Show beta
βeta: My first sea cliff climb. Abb’d off to the triangular niche following a convenient edge at an angle to descend on the left side of another group. Easy to see the 1st pitch route from the start.. loverly climb, lots of places to rest and place gear, A very easy VS. Looks a little steep but we’ll protected. 2nd pitch I think we took an alternate route, at the belay felt like we should have ascended directly up, but we went left instead . Which incidentally was chossy wet garbage slab. Sometimes hard to tell from the image and guide description. Awesome climb,
Kasia Piatek 13 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Hundreds of birds around. Many sat below the crux roof, the ledge covered in fish smelling bird guano, other than that, an epic route, well protected, second pitch more like a scramble with some loose rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hundreds of birds around. Many sat below the crux roof, the ledge covered in fish smelling bird guano, other than that, an epic route, well protected, second pitch more like a scramble with some loose rock.
Crofty 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good climbing, Ewan didn't like the overhang at the start of P2, so I ended up leading both pitches. Only stopped raining as we drove past Bangor and only had a couple of drops fall while on Holyhead. M62 had cars with water up to number plates on slip road at Oldham!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good climbing, Ewan didn't like the overhang at the start of P2, so I ended up leading both pitches. Only stopped raining as we drove past Bangor and only had a couple of drops fall while on Holyhead. M62 had cars with water up to number plates on slip road at Oldham!!!

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 89
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Green Light

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Smurf Zawn)

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