The direct version is slightly harder. Start at the triangular niche.
1) 4c, 32m. Move left along the easy traverse and, near its end, head directly up to a break-line and traverse this to a crack. Climb the crack direct to below the roof, and follow Lighthouse Arete to the belay on a ledge.
2) 4a, 35m. As for Lighthouse Arete P3. © Rockfax
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