Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.


A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 


Rockfax Description
A great route with a fantastic final pitch. Start from a small niche directly below the left end of the half-height ledge.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the crack and gain the first break-line. Follow the vague groove up to the next break, before continuing on to the left-hand end of the half-height ledge.
2) 5b, 44m. From the right-hand end of the half-height ledge, climb up to another large break. Traverse this rightwards until you can reach up for another break. Follow this until you can step up and left across the slight overlap into a slim groove on the right. Head up and right, following the groove, until level with a final break. Traverse left across a groove onto the headwall where cracks lead past a series of ledges to the top. © Rockfax

Al Evan, J Moran (pitch 1) G Milburn, N Siddiqui 01/May/1978.


Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , May Trip Target List , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , North Wales To Do List


User Date Notes
jodiealmighty 6 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 165
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 158
Votes cast 153
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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