UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A great VS. Start from a small ledge and stance below the centre of the half-height ledge. The first pitch feels quite bold, and the second pitch has two distinct cruxes.
1) 4c, 28m. Climb the white wall to the break. Trend up and slightly right to the next break. Go up to another break then a groove leading up to the centre of the half-height ledge.
2) 4c, 32m. From near the left-hand end of the ledge, a short steep wall has a hard start - good holds and gear above. Move up to the break and go straight up to the next break. Shuffle left along this and then make a hard hand-traverse out right to get established on the wall above. Finish up the crack, exiting left at the top to the abseil station. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , MIA logbook must haves! , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , 2021 , Summer 2021 , Welsh Roadtrip , Wales Trip - 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Brimham55 14 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant. Did top pitch 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant. Did top pitch 5a.
Brimham55 12 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant. Did top pitch 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant. Did top pitch 5a.
Brimham55 11 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant. Did top pitch 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant. Did top pitch 5a.
charlie broe 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitch 1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead pitch 1
Butty 19 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nice enough route, started slightly higher due to wet stance. Not as good as Pel imo and slightly harder!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice enough route, started slightly higher due to wet stance. Not as good as Pel imo and slightly harder!

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 147
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 141
Votes cast 129
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tension

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Holyhead Mountain)

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