Rockfax Description
A tough proposition even with the easier and safer start. The extremely bold original start is up the line of weakness 3m right and has the terrifying grade of E5 5c. An exciting 50m diagonal abseil gains a belay; a reasonable spike on a ledge below the main line of weakness. Start by moving up the wall from a sloping ledge by a couple of suspect spikes, there may or may not be a peg, which is passed on the left. Move up and right into a sandy area below an overlap and then traverse right into the main groove system. Head up the groove passing much decaying ironmongery left by the first ascent - filmed and broadcast live by the BBC in 1966. At about 25m the grooves split, take the right-hand groove past a couple of overlaps. Step out right to a small ledge and then climb the wall to enter an upper vertical groove, finish up this to the top. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)


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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

20,000 Leagues Under the Sea

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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