Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 


Rockfax Description
A stunning route that takes in some outrageous territory. Start at the base of the abseil, right of the juggy corner of The Moon.
1) 6a, 38m. Climb up to the overhanging crack - very hard in damp conditions when you may require a 'rest'. From its top, traverse rightwards along a break, through impressive terrain, to a corner. Move across this and around the right arete then head for the belay on The Moon.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up the cracks rightwards slightly before heading more directly up towards an alarming hanging flake. Climb this to pass the first roof, only to be confronted by another one. Move over this and enter a right-trending groove and finish up this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Spectacular and well-protected. Mostly very reasonable for the grade apart from the flake-crack. Those with a traditional ‘thin hands’ jamming competency and finding dry conditions will romp up this too; it is more usual to thrash and dangle. Start as for The Moon, below a left to right diagonal overhanging flake-crack where it all gets steep.
1. 35m. 6a. Up trending rightwards to the overhanging crack. If you are lucky this will only be damp. Grapple with the crack (good training for Astroman…or vice versa?) into the easier continuation groove. Traverse right to an open corner and right again around the arête and go up to belay as for The Moon.
2. 30m. 5c. Launch straight over the overhang above the stance into a niche. Go over another roof into a groove leading to a slab and terra firma.
Dave Pearce and Paul Trower, (2 points aid) 1976. FFA Pete Gomersall or Joe Healey 1980.


North Wales Rock Graded List , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , James' Summer Ticklist , Climbs With Animal Names


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 17
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Outside the asylum

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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