Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
A great route, and the most compelling line on this wall. While there are no stopper moves, the climbing is sustained and involved throughout. Start from the foot of the rock gully by a block belay, about 10m down and left from the start of Red Wall.
1) 4c, 35m. Move left into the sandy groove, and take the easiest line up and left, following the faultline to a sloping ledge.
2) 5b, 45m. This pitch tackles the continuation of the large sandy fault/chimney/crack. Climb up past a shallow depression, and make a committing move to gain the start of the corner. Continue up this, passing two sloping ledges, and belay on the third which is to the left of the final corner.
3) 4b, 14m. Move back into the main corner and follow a line up this; great care is needed with both rock and protection. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An awesome outing up another of RHRW's lovely chimneys. Friendly and well protected for a route on this cliff!
North Wales Rock Graded List , The Road to Shibboleth , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics
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