UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A great route, and the most compelling line on this wall. While there are no stopper moves, the climbing is sustained and involved throughout. Start from the foot of the rock gully by a block belay, about 10m down and left from the start of Red Wall.
1) 4c, 35m. Move left into the sandy groove, and take the easiest line up and left, following the faultline to a sloping ledge.
2) 5b, 45m. This pitch tackles the continuation of the large sandy fault/chimney/crack. Climb up past a shallow depression, and make a committing move to gain the start of the corner. Continue up this, passing two sloping ledges, and belay on the third which is to the left of the final corner.
3) 4b, 14m. Move back into the main corner and follow a line up this; great care is needed with both rock and protection. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome outing up another of RHRW's lovely chimneys. Friendly and well protected for a route on this cliff!

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , The Road to Shibboleth , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simon King 22 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The last moves to the P2 belay are a bit spooky. A large block has obviously recently gone missing and the one below is not long for this world!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The last moves to the P2 belay are a bit spooky. A large block has obviously recently gone missing and the one below is not long for this world!
Ian Parnell 19 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a big spike at top of groove of pitch 2 might be some loose rock left behind - take care
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a big spike at top of groove of pitch 2 might be some loose rock left behind - take care
planetmarshall 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If you use DMM cams you will need a Dragon 4 (Gold) for the "Blue Remembered Hills" belay. Not beta as this info is in the GroundUp guidebook but that specifies a Friend 3 (Blue).
Show beta
βeta: If you use DMM cams you will need a Dragon 4 (Gold) for the "Blue Remembered Hills" belay. Not beta as this info is in the GroundUp guidebook but that specifies a Friend 3 (Blue).

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lost Time

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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