UKC Logbook - 'Aviation'

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Dartmoor's enduring classic - sustained and engrossing on perfect rock. Start at a short pillar below a steep flake crack.
1) 5b, 16m. Climb the short pillar to beneath the bulging and rounded flake crack. Forceful moves into and up the crack are then followed by a delicate and technical traverse right to a hanging belay on nuts and a tied-off chickenhead.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse a short way rightwards and climb a flake crack and the insecure drainpipe above to easier slab climbing and the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
By popular UKC demand this will remain at E1 for now!

FA. D.Bassett 15/Jun/1961.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Memorable Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Moving to Devon , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Bristol Crack School , The E1 UK Roadtrip , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Road to lundy

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
rjohnn	30 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Single pitch doable but loads of drag and communication from the top tricky on windy day.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Single pitch doable but loads of drag and communication from the top tricky on windy day.
badgerjockey	30 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Can confirm that abbing off the ironwork at the top enables retrieval of stuck gear on 60m ropes.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Can confirm that abbing off the ironwork at the top enables retrieval of stuck gear on 60m ropes.
Liz.Morrison	15 Oct, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Brilliant route, good job my hanging belay was bomber, Rich needed a helping hand getting through the crux!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Brilliant route, good job my hanging belay was bomber, Rich needed a helping hand getting through the crux!
laurasmitton	11 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Did in one pitch, ended up with quite a lot of drag. A belting route though!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Did in one pitch, ended up with quite a lot of drag. A belting route though!
DaveHK	14 Aug, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Defo HVS. Felt easier than many HVS's to me. Guess it comes down to how you are on cracks / laybacks.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Defo HVS. Felt easier than many HVS's to me. Guess it comes down to how you are on cracks / laybacks.
chris j	15 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Steady HVS, good pro all up the first pitch, maybe a 5b move on the traverse. Second pitch slightly insecure feeling climbing up the groove but if you're confident at the grade it'll be a breeze. Do it in two pitches for all the fun of the semi-hanging belay at the flake! (no idea why you'd tie off the chickenhead as there's better anchors there)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Steady HVS, good pro all up the first pitch, maybe a 5b move on the traverse. Second pitch slightly insecure feeling climbing up the groove but if you're confident at the grade it'll be a breeze. Do it in two pitches for all the fun of the semi-hanging belay at the flake! (no idea why you'd tie off the chickenhead as there's better anchors there)
Matt_b	30 Jun, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Err why the downgrade?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Err why the downgrade?