Dartmoor's enduring classic gives sustained and engrossing climbing on perfect rock. Start at a short, square-cut pillar below a steep flake-crack.1) 5b, 16m. Climb the short pillar to beneath the bulging and rounded flake-crack. Forceful moves into and up the crack are then followed by a delicate and technical traverse right to a hanging belay on nuts and a tied-off chickenhead.2) 5a, 20m. Traverse a short way rightwards and climb a flake-crack and the insecure drainpipe above to easier, slabby climbing and the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
By popular UKC demand this will remain at E1 for now!
FA. D.Bassett 15/Jun/1961.
West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Memorable Climbs, Extreme 2018, Moving to Devon, BMG Application Rock (Unofficial), Bristol Crack School, The E1 UK Roadtrip, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4, Plymouth Crackhead Club, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs
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