UKC

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Dartmoor's enduring classic gives sustained and engrossing climbing on perfect rock. Start at a short, square-cut pillar below a steep flake-crack.
1) 5b, 16m. Climb the short pillar to beneath the bulging and rounded flake-crack. Forceful moves into and up the crack are then followed by a delicate and technical traverse right to a hanging belay on nuts and a tied-off chickenhead.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse a short way rightwards and climb a flake-crack and the insecure drainpipe above to easier, slabby climbing and the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
By popular UKC demand this will remain at E1 for now!

FA. D.Bassett 15/Jun/1961.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Memorable Climbs, Extreme 2018, Moving to Devon, BMG Application Rock (Unofficial), Bristol Crack School, The E1 UK Roadtrip, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4, Plymouth Crackhead Club, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
laurasmitton 11 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Did in one pitch, ended up with quite a lot of drag. A belting route though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did in one pitch, ended up with quite a lot of drag. A belting route though!
DaveHK 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Defo HVS. Felt easier than many HVS's to me. Guess it comes down to how you are on cracks / laybacks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo HVS. Felt easier than many HVS's to me. Guess it comes down to how you are on cracks / laybacks.
chris j 15 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Steady HVS, good pro all up the first pitch, maybe a 5b move on the traverse. Second pitch slightly insecure feeling climbing up the groove but if you're confident at the grade it'll be a breeze. Do it in two pitches for all the fun of the semi-hanging belay at the flake! (no idea why you'd tie off the chickenhead as there's better anchors there)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Steady HVS, good pro all up the first pitch, maybe a 5b move on the traverse. Second pitch slightly insecure feeling climbing up the groove but if you're confident at the grade it'll be a breeze. Do it in two pitches for all the fun of the semi-hanging belay at the flake! (no idea why you'd tie off the chickenhead as there's better anchors there)
Matt_b 30 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Err why the downgrade?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Err why the downgrade?

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High E2
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High HVS
Mid HVS
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Votes cast 147
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 169
Votes cast 169
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Haggis

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Haytor)
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