One of the best hard routes in the country with a technical crux, a bold groove and a sting in the tail. Although the crux is well protected, there is a big run-out on only marginally easier territory with ground-fall potential. Scramble up easy rock to a belay under the groove. Climb the wall past two bolts into the capped groove. Climb the groove (heart in mouth, runners in mind) to small wire placements on the right and a peg. Move left with hands above the overhang to a rest on the Decadence belay. Make great moves up the pocketed wall above past bolts until a final swing leftwards gains Flaky Wall. Finish as for this. © Rockfax
FFA. Andy Brown, Jerry Peel 1979. The hard start had been freed by American Mike Graham in 1977 but he didnt lead the full route in one push, he still renamed it Basteal though! FA.Brian Moore, D.Land 1963. Aid reduced to 1pt Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1.
Extreme Rock, The High Tor Top Ten, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, Four years of university hit list
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