UKC

37m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best hard routes in the country with a technical crux, a bold groove and a sting in the tail. Although the crux is well protected, there is a big run-out on only marginally easier territory with ground-fall potential. Scramble up easy rock to a belay under the groove. Climb the wall past two bolts into the capped groove. Climb the groove (heart in mouth, runners in mind) to small wire placements on the right and a peg. Move left with hands above the overhang to a rest on the Decadence belay. Make great moves up the pocketed wall above past bolts until a final swing leftwards gains Flaky Wall. Finish as for this. © Rockfax

FFA. Andy Brown, Jerry Peel 1979. The hard start had been freed by American Mike Graham in 1977 but he didnt lead the full route in one push, he still renamed it Basteal though! FA.Brian Moore, D.Land 1963. Aid reduced to 1pt Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, The High Tor Top Ten, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, Four years of university hit list

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeoffG 7 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Do I assume that these are the bolt(s) above the Decadence belay ledge? Last time I was on this the bolt at the start was new.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do I assume that these are the bolt(s) above the Decadence belay ledge? Last time I was on this the bolt at the start was new.
Adrian Berry 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Old 8mm self-drill bolts now replaced.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Old 8mm self-drill bolts now replaced.
GeoffG 7 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: As good as it gets! Should be on everyones list of trad routes to do
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As good as it gets! Should be on everyones list of trad routes to do

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High E7
Mid E7
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 14
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Monkey Madness

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)
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