Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
One of the best hard routes in the country with a technical crux, a bold groove and a sting in the tail. Although the crux is well protected, there is a big run-out on only marginally easier territory with ground-fall potential. Scramble up easy rock to a belay under the groove. Climb the wall past two bolts into the capped groove. Climb the groove (heart in mouth, runners in mind) to small wire placements on the right and a peg. Move left with hands above the overhang to a rest on the Decadence belay. Make great moves up the pocketed wall above past bolts until a final swing leftwards gains Flaky Wall. Finish as for this. © Rockfax
FFA. Andy Brown, Jerry Peel 1979. The hard start had been freed by American Mike Graham in 1977 but he didnt lead the full route in one push, he still renamed it Basteal though! FA.Brian Moore, D.Land 1963. Aid reduced to 1pt Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , The High Tor Top Ten , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Four years of university hit list , Hard Peak Limestone Trad , Best Before 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| waddy | 24 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: For bolt free ascent, some medium Rps low down. Micro cams. Small to medium wires and plenty of small cams, especially narrow ones. Tricams work quite well too. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: For bolt free ascent, some medium Rps low down. Micro cams. Small to medium wires and plenty of small cams, especially narrow ones. Tricams work quite well too. |
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| GeoffG | 7 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Do I assume that these are the bolt(s) above the Decadence belay ledge? Last time I was on this the bolt at the start was new. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Do I assume that these are the bolt(s) above the Decadence belay ledge? Last time I was on this the bolt at the start was new. |
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| Adrian Berry | 5 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Old 8mm self-drill bolts now replaced. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Old 8mm self-drill bolts now replaced. |
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| GeoffG | 7 Feb, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: As good as it gets! Should be on everyones list of trad routes to do | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As good as it gets! Should be on everyones list of trad routes to do |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Make it Snappy
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gardom's Edge)