Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
40m.
A new addition on good rock which takes a parallel line to Bastille that links into Decadence and the top wall of Grimsvotn.
30m. Start 10 feet right of Bastille below a low solitary bolt. Climb past this (crux) and then the committing slabby wall above directly to the thread on Decadence. Follow Decadence and flakes above until you can step left and then up and across to a thread hold on Bastille by its old belay. Arrange gear (don’t thread the thread hold it is too delicate, a small cam down the back of it is better) then reverse back down right and tackle the pocketed wall above to a jug rail and then the wall above to belay in a white recess BR and PR. Exit the left side of the recess past a thread and climb the looser wall above to the top.
30m. Start 10 feet right of Bastille below a low solitary bolt. Climb past this (crux) and then the committing slabby wall above directly to the thread on Decadence. Follow Decadence and flakes above until you can step left and then up and across to a thread hold on Bastille by its old belay. Arrange gear (don’t thread the thread hold it is too delicate, a small cam down the back of it is better) then reverse back down right and tackle the pocketed wall above to a jug rail and then the wall above to belay in a white recess BR and PR. Exit the left side of the recess past a thread and climb the looser wall above to the top.
Originally, a bolt at 3m protected the start. Bolt removed shortly after FA. Simon Lee, Seb Grieve 05/Jul/2024.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tony-S | 10 Dec, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: This routes should appear after (right of) Tumbril and Musical Women (these both share the start of Bastille before traversing right). This route joins Tumbril/MW just above where the described bolt was (now removed, at least twice) and follows MW (and, subsequently, Decadence) to its first belay. This route then follows Grimsvotn. The bolt belay in the white recess has also been removed (at least twice), continue to the summit at no change in grade. Despite the absence of the bolts, the grade remains E6. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This routes should appear after (right of) Tumbril and Musical Women (these both share the start of Bastille before traversing right). This route joins Tumbril/MW just above where the described bolt was (now removed, at least twice) and follows MW (and, subsequently, Decadence) to its first belay. This route then follows Grimsvotn. The bolt belay in the white recess has also been removed (at least twice), continue to the summit at no change in grade. Despite the absence of the bolts, the grade remains E6. |
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| Northern_Pie_eater | 2 Dec, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bolt is back in, screw you TS | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The bolt is back in, screw you TS |
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| Tony-S | 23 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The topos for at least the lower portion of Tumbril are correct (start as for Bastille, moving right into Decadence, etc.) - this was confirmed by both first ascentionists. Additionally, both first ascentionists of Tumbil have expressed that any future bolting should be on a consensus basis. An appropriate forum to discuss this would be a BMC Peak Area meeting. For more information about the history of routes in this area, see “Peak Rock: The History, the Routes, the Climbers”. If UKBShark reads an accurate description of this route (Storming) and declares the route a “sh*tty eliminate with a contrived protected start” then who am I to argue? (Though, personally, I thought it quite a good eliminate - however I’d rather he refrain from needlessly bolting it.) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The topos for at least the lower portion of Tumbril are correct (start as for Bastille, moving right into Decadence, etc.) - this was confirmed by both first ascentionists. Additionally, both first ascentionists of Tumbil have expressed that any future bolting should be on a consensus basis. An appropriate forum to discuss this would be a BMC Peak Area meeting. For more information about the history of routes in this area, see “Peak Rock: The History, the Routes, the Climbers”. If UKBShark reads an accurate description of this route (Storming) and declares the route a “sh*tty eliminate with a contrived protected start” then who am I to argue? (Though, personally, I thought it quite a good eliminate - however I’d rather he refrain from needlessly bolting it.) |
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| shark | 28 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tony Stone as new moderator has substantially altered the description I provided and star rating (3 stars down to 1) for this new route and reassigned it to the hybrids and linkup section. The altered description does not reflect the way the route was conceived or done and re-characterises it as a shitty eliminate with a contrived protected start to accommodate him chopping the bolt. As originally done it is a superb parallel line to Bastille. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Tony Stone as new moderator has substantially altered the description I provided and star rating (3 stars down to 1) for this new route and reassigned it to the hybrids and linkup section. The altered description does not reflect the way the route was conceived or done and re-characterises it as a shitty eliminate with a contrived protected start to accommodate him chopping the bolt. As originally done it is a superb parallel line to Bastille. |
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| shark | 6 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The topo lines on both the Rockfax and Peak Limestone South are wrong for the starts of Tumbril and Decadence. Tumbril starts 10 foot right again of Storming coming out left of the end of the low bulge. The rock is fairly terrible. Decadence starts further right either doing a couple of moves over the right side of the bulge or more sensibly shuffling along and up the break from the base of Pillar. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The topo lines on both the Rockfax and Peak Limestone South are wrong for the starts of Tumbril and Decadence. Tumbril starts 10 foot right again of Storming coming out left of the end of the low bulge. The rock is fairly terrible. Decadence starts further right either doing a couple of moves over the right side of the bulge or more sensibly shuffling along and up the break from the base of Pillar. |
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Route of Interest
Ulysses' Bow
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Stanage Plantation)