Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A newer 'D' diagonal that has some good climbing but is eliminate in nature.
1) 6a, 40m. Start up Lyme Cryme to the overlap then over the bulge above as for Brompton's Cocktail. Boldly climb up rightwards to join Robert Brown at a flake and follow that route to the bulge. Meander diagonally rightwards to join Original Route and belay. A long pitch - take plenty of gear.
2) 6a, 20m. Swing around the arete to gain a rail just left of the thread on Tales of Yankee Power. Move up and then head rightwards. Make hard moves to pass the final bolt of Bastille at about knee level, and pull right into a large scoop and belay.
3) 5b, 10m. Move left to a thread and finish as for Flaky Wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Potentially superseded by the existence of Johnny Brown and the more recent addition of New Deli which takes its final section.
P1. 40m. 6a. Start up Lyme Cryme to the overlap (cams) then over the bulge above as for Brompton's Cocktail. Large nut/s and small cams (green alien sits well). Boldly climb diagonally rightwards to join Robert Brown at a pancake flake and follow that route to the bulge. Look right and lock your sights on the overlap in the middle of Original route. Meander diagonally rightwards to join it and belay (Nuts and Cams). A long and arduous pitch - take plenty of gear.
P2. 30m. 6a. Swing around the arête to gain a juggy rail in a magnificent position just left of the thread on Tales. Move up and then head joyfully and horizontally rightwards. Make crux moves to pass the final bolt of Bastille at about knee level (easiest not to clip it) pulling right into the white slabby recess and to belay (BR and PR).
Simon Lee, Jon Fullwood 05/Jul/2016.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| shark | 6 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Peg and nut belay available to the right of the recess in the gully | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Peg and nut belay available to the right of the recess in the gully |
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| Tony-S | 4 Nov, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bolt belay in the large scoop / white slabby recess was removed (twice). Continue to the summit at no change in grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The bolt belay in the large scoop / white slabby recess was removed (twice). Continue to the summit at no change in grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Supercrack
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Lorry Park Quarry)