Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
An exposed outing with a lot of great climbing. Effectively a high girdle with some wild situations, but also a bit line-less.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb Skylight to the roof, traverse right (peg) to the arete (bolt above) and down climb for a few metres until it is possible to traverse right to gain a crack-line which leads to the Castellan belay. Apart from nuts in Skylight and one in the arete just before the down-climb, this pitch is now fully geared.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right to gain the groove on Hot Gossip. Reverse this to the Laurin stance.
3) 6a, 20m. Reverse Nightmare... to the in-situ gear then continue right and up to the twin bolts on Brompton's Cocktail. Continue right to belay on Debauchery, just left of Robert Brown.
4) 6a, 20m. Climb up to an overhang and pull out left to a flake. Follow this and the bulges above to finish.
4a) 5c, 24m. More in keeping with the diagonal theme. Continue traversing diagonally right across Ariadne's Thread into Darius. Ascend this to the bolt then continue diagonally right to the thread of Perseus. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. John Codling, M.Manson 1981.
Ticklists
Extreme Girdle , Peak Traverses
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tony-S | 8 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Note: the Big Cigar bolts have now gone so pitch 2 will be back to its full value for the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Note: the Big Cigar bolts have now gone so pitch 2 will be back to its full value for the grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Behemoth
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)