Rockfax Description
An exposed outing with a lot of great climbing. Effectively a high girdle with some wild situations, but also a bit line-less.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb Skylight to the roof, traverse right (peg) to the arete (bolt above) and down climb for a few metres until it is possible to traverse right to gain a crack-line which leads to the Castellan belay. Apart from nuts in Skylight and one in the arete just before the down-climb, this pitch is now fully geared.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right to gain the groove on Hot Gossip. Reverse this to the Laurin stance.
3) 6a, 20m. Reverse Nightmare... to the in-situ gear then continue right and up to the twin bolts on Brompton's Cocktail. Continue right to belay on Debauchery, just left of Robert Brown.
4) 6a, 20m. Climb up to an overhang and pull out left to a flake. Follow this and the bulges above to finish.
4a) 5c, 24m. More in keeping with the diagonal theme. Continue traversing diagonally right across Ariadne's Thread into Darius. Ascend this to the bolt then continue diagonally right to the thread of Perseus. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. John Codling, M.Manson 1981.

Feedback Always Hide βeta