85m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An exposed outing with a lot of great climbing. Effectively a high girdle with some wild situations, but also a bit line-less.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb Skylight to the roof, traverse right (peg) to the arete (bolt above) and down climb for a few metres until it is possible to traverse right to gain a crack-line which leads to the Castellan belay. Apart from nuts in Skylight and one in the arete just before the down-climb, this pitch is now fully geared.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right to gain the groove on Hot Gossip. Reverse this to the Laurin stance.
3) 6a, 20m. Reverse Nightmare... to the in-situ gear then continue right and up to the twin bolts on Brompton's Cocktail. Continue right to belay on Debauchery, just left of Robert Brown.
4) 6a, 20m. Climb up to an overhang and pull out left to a flake. Follow this and the bulges above to finish.
4a) 5c, 24m. More in keeping with the diagonal theme. Continue traversing diagonally right across Ariadne's Thread into Darius. Ascend this to the bolt then continue diagonally right to the thread of Perseus. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. John Codling, M.Manson 1981.


Extreme Girdle , Peak Traverses


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ulysses or Bust

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)

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