Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A great introduction to this magnificent face for HVS leaders. Start on ledges below the groove. Move 3m left then climb up and pull back right into the groove. Climb this, past various bits of old gear and plenty of good wires, to the ledge at the top. Abseil off or continue for a short pitch (4c) to tick the summit direct from a ledge, or up a groove on the right. The direct start, which is part of Tales of Yankee Power, is about a grade harder. © Rockfax
FFA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1958. FA. (as Bastion Wall) Pete Hassell, Peter Biven and another 1953..
Ticklists
The High Tor Top Ten , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Pete's Peak Treats , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| UKB Shark | 27 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: If lowering off the bolt belay beware that 60m ropes won’t get you to the ground. The 27m pitch length in the BMC guide is a hangover from when you used to belay on a tree at 40feet that has now gone. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If lowering off the bolt belay beware that 60m ropes won’t get you to the ground. The 27m pitch length in the BMC guide is a hangover from when you used to belay on a tree at 40feet that has now gone. |
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| Ollie_blacker | 16 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Started off with spits of rain in the air. Half way up it got heavier, carried on with slippery feet to what I thought was the anchor (old peg). Set up a hanging belay and brought my second up. He led through to the actual anchor. Great first lead of the year. Borderline type 2 fun. Lessons learnt...1, Read the route description and 2, Dont climb limestone when wet. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Started off with spits of rain in the air. Half way up it got heavier, carried on with slippery feet to what I thought was the anchor (old peg). Set up a hanging belay and brought my second up. He led through to the actual anchor. Great first lead of the year. Borderline type 2 fun. Lessons learnt...1, Read the route description and 2, Dont climb limestone when wet. |
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| I Taylor | 25 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Currently one good peg after the layback section, and no other leftover gear. Not much polish for feet. Gear placements were polished and were problematic to get nuts to stay put. Basejumper waited for us to finish our abseil before jumping! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Currently one good peg after the layback section, and no other leftover gear. Not much polish for feet. Gear placements were polished and were problematic to get nuts to stay put. Basejumper waited for us to finish our abseil before jumping! |
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| Jonny2vests | 18 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic - especially the layback switch move. Yes, its polished but positive enough to not matter too much. Its def not harder than Debauchery (John Alcock) but is a solid HVS. What I dont understand is why the route has the kink at the start - if done direct (with inevitable, unavoidable but careful use of the tree) the grade is maintained, there's good gear and the line is purer. Done it both ways and prefer it direct. When the tree goes (not long now I'm afraid as its properly dead) the direct route could be around E2 5c ish. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic - especially the layback switch move. Yes, its polished but positive enough to not matter too much. Its def not harder than Debauchery (John Alcock) but is a solid HVS. What I dont understand is why the route has the kink at the start - if done direct (with inevitable, unavoidable but careful use of the tree) the grade is maintained, there's good gear and the line is purer. Done it both ways and prefer it direct. When the tree goes (not long now I'm afraid as its properly dead) the direct route could be around E2 5c ish. |
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| supersteve | 18 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tough for HVS but no harder. Good sustained climbing all the way. The route is not polished - whoever says it is has never climbed in the Avon Gorge! It has just had lots on traffic. A 'not to miss' climb worth on 3 stars. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Tough for HVS but no harder. Good sustained climbing all the way. The route is not polished - whoever says it is has never climbed in the Avon Gorge! It has just had lots on traffic. A 'not to miss' climb worth on 3 stars. |
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| Alex1 | 15 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Solid HVS, all the holds are good if you take the time to find them. Don't agree with the comments about polish, didn't notice any which badly affected holds. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Solid HVS, all the holds are good if you take the time to find them. Don't agree with the comments about polish, didn't notice any which badly affected holds. |
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| sheffieldchris | 21 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: have to say am note quite solid at HVS so found this a real struggle mostly due to not getting any rests to put gear in and looking up and not being able to see any possible rests. for me on site more like E1 but i agree looking back more top end HVS. if a Vs climber now only aspire to this route if you are strong, wait to improve your style first | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: have to say am note quite solid at HVS so found this a real struggle mostly due to not getting any rests to put gear in and looking up and not being able to see any possible rests. for me on site more like E1 but i agree looking back more top end HVS. if a Vs climber now only aspire to this route if you are strong, wait to improve your style first |
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| Sam and will | 27 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: its only VS, sustained 4c all the way up :-) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: its only VS, sustained 4c all the way up :-) |
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| Alex Mason | 9 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: yeah agree with everything thats been said and the gear aint that good until the climbin eases at about half height definately closer to E1 than vs | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: yeah agree with everything thats been said and the gear aint that good until the climbin eases at about half height definately closer to E1 than vs |
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| alan moore | 2 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yes E1 5a wouldn't be out of place..this is very sustained and pumpy. And why on earth would anyone not consider doing the top pitch? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yes E1 5a wouldn't be out of place..this is very sustained and pumpy. And why on earth would anyone not consider doing the top pitch? |
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| John Alcock | 16 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the polish made it harder than Debauchery! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought the polish made it harder than Debauchery! |
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| bone | 27 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route and would agree with the above. Maybe at this grade it warrants one of those pumpy symbols because there isn't much for your feet, especially the left one when you need rests. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent route and would agree with the above. Maybe at this grade it warrants one of those pumpy symbols because there isn't much for your feet, especially the left one when you need rests. |
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| Budge | 5 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree, it's not the soft touch that the BMC guides make out. Brilliant though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'd agree, it's not the soft touch that the BMC guides make out. Brilliant though. |
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Highlight
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(High Tor)