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35m.

Rockfax Description
A great introduction to this magnificent face for HVS leaders. Start on ledges below the groove. Move 3m left then climb up and pull back right into the groove. Climb this, past various bits of old gear and plenty of good wires, to the ledge at the top. Abseil off or continue for a short pitch (4c) to tick the summit direct from a ledge, or up a groove on the right. The direct start, which is part of Tales of Yankee Power, is about a grade harder. © Rockfax

FFA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1958. FA. (as Bastion Wall) Pete Hassell, Peter Biven and another 1953..

Ticklists

The High Tor Top Ten, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, Dougs 2020 ToDo List

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User Date Notes
I Taylor 25 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Currently one good peg after the layback section, and no other leftover gear. Not much polish for feet. Gear placements were polished and were problematic to get nuts to stay put. Basejumper waited for us to finish our abseil before jumping!
 
Show beta
βeta: Currently one good peg after the layback section, and no other leftover gear. Not much polish for feet. Gear placements were polished and were problematic to get nuts to stay put. Basejumper waited for us to finish our abseil before jumping!
Jonny2vests 18 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic - especially the layback switch move. Yes, its polished but positive enough to not matter too much. Its def not harder than Debauchery (John Alcock) but is a solid HVS. What I dont understand is why the route has the kink at the start - if done direct (with inevitable, unavoidable but careful use of the tree) the grade is maintained, there's good gear and the line is purer. Done it both ways and prefer it direct. When the tree goes (not long now I'm afraid as its properly dead) the direct route could be around E2 5c ish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic - especially the layback switch move. Yes, its polished but positive enough to not matter too much. Its def not harder than Debauchery (John Alcock) but is a solid HVS. What I dont understand is why the route has the kink at the start - if done direct (with inevitable, unavoidable but careful use of the tree) the grade is maintained, there's good gear and the line is purer. Done it both ways and prefer it direct. When the tree goes (not long now I'm afraid as its properly dead) the direct route could be around E2 5c ish.
supersteve 18 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tough for HVS but no harder. Good sustained climbing all the way. The route is not polished - whoever says it is has never climbed in the Avon Gorge! It has just had lots on traffic. A 'not to miss' climb worth on 3 stars.
βeta?
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βeta: Tough for HVS but no harder. Good sustained climbing all the way. The route is not polished - whoever says it is has never climbed in the Avon Gorge! It has just had lots on traffic. A 'not to miss' climb worth on 3 stars.
Alex1 15 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Solid HVS, all the holds are good if you take the time to find them. Don't agree with the comments about polish, didn't notice any which badly affected holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Solid HVS, all the holds are good if you take the time to find them. Don't agree with the comments about polish, didn't notice any which badly affected holds.
sheffieldchris 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: have to say am note quite solid at HVS so found this a real struggle mostly due to not getting any rests to put gear in and looking up and not being able to see any possible rests. for me on site more like E1 but i agree looking back more top end HVS. if a Vs climber now only aspire to this route if you are strong, wait to improve your style first
βeta?
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βeta: have to say am note quite solid at HVS so found this a real struggle mostly due to not getting any rests to put gear in and looking up and not being able to see any possible rests. for me on site more like E1 but i agree looking back more top end HVS. if a Vs climber now only aspire to this route if you are strong, wait to improve your style first
Sam and will 27 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: its only VS, sustained 4c all the way up :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: its only VS, sustained 4c all the way up :-)
Alex Mason 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: yeah agree with everything thats been said and the gear aint that good until the climbin eases at about half height definately closer to E1 than vs
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: yeah agree with everything thats been said and the gear aint that good until the climbin eases at about half height definately closer to E1 than vs
alan moore 2 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yes E1 5a wouldn't be out of place..this is very sustained and pumpy. And why on earth would anyone not consider doing the top pitch?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes E1 5a wouldn't be out of place..this is very sustained and pumpy. And why on earth would anyone not consider doing the top pitch?
John Alcock 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the polish made it harder than Debauchery!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the polish made it harder than Debauchery!
bone 27 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route and would agree with the above. Maybe at this grade it warrants one of those pumpy symbols because there isn't much for your feet, especially the left one when you need rests.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route and would agree with the above. Maybe at this grade it warrants one of those pumpy symbols because there isn't much for your feet, especially the left one when you need rests.
Budge 5 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree, it's not the soft touch that the BMC guides make out. Brilliant though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree, it's not the soft touch that the BMC guides make out. Brilliant though.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 188
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 182
Votes cast 170
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Highlight

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(High Tor)