Restricted Access

High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines: 

  • With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
  • Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
  • When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.

3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An eliminate that visits some of the exposed spots.
1) 6a, 22m. Start as for Hot Gossip. After entering the groove, traverse left at an easy line above the roof for a couple of metres until below a thin crack. Climb this (one move of 5b to start) then easily up to belay below the cave of Castellan.
2) 6b, 20m. Follow Hot Gossip to the roof (Laurin goes right here and Hot Gossip straight up). Traverse wildly left into the hanging scoop (knee-lock rest) to good holds and gear (peg). Make the crux moves to and up the rib/crack to jugs and stance.
3) 5c, 22m. Move slightly left and up the wall right of the groove of Hot Gossip (thread and cam in pocket) to the roof and use the Phrantic Finish to cross this. Trend right across the wall to the break and finish up a small flake on the left. © Rockfax


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Guidebooks for High Tor

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Lorry Park Quarry)

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