High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
A complex line, finding its way through some unlikely territory, but with good climbing. Start under the left-hand of a pair of black loose-looking grooves at the cliff base.
1) 6a, 21m. Climb into (6b if you don't find the hidden jug) and up the loose black groove below the right-hand end of the Castellan cave to a ledge below the main cave base.
2) 6a, 21m. Step right and pull up past a hanging block. Continue through the bulge to gain the middle of three grooves and climb this to the Laurin stance.
3) 5c, 21m. Climb delicately leftwards then up to a fine groove (peg), as for Brown Donkeys. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Allen, John Codling, Jim Lockett 1983.
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