Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A complex line, finding its way through some unlikely territory, but with good climbing. Start under the left-hand of a pair of black loose-looking grooves at the cliff base.
1) 6a, 21m. Climb into (6b if you don't find the hidden jug) and up the loose black groove below the right-hand end of the Castellan cave to a ledge below the main cave base.
2) 6a, 21m. Step right and pull up past a hanging block. Continue through the bulge to gain the middle of three grooves and climb this to the Laurin stance.
3) 5c, 21m. Climb delicately leftwards then up to a fine groove (peg), as for Brown Donkeys. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Allen, John Codling, Jim Lockett 1983.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| UKB Shark | 8 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The description of Neil Fosters new route in this area (Party in the Park) courtesy of Graham Hoey is : Start as for Hot Gossip ( 6a -nice hidden jug up and right which I'd never spotted before!). After entering the groove traverse left at the obvious easy line above the roof for a couple of metres until below a thin crack. Climb this (one move of 5b/c to start) then easily up to belay below the cave of Castellan. Pitch 2 (6a/b) Hot Gossip to the roof (Laurin goes right, Hot Gossip straight up). Traverse excitedly left into the hanging scoop (Knee lock rest) good holds and gear (peg). Make crux move to move up the rib/crack to jugs and stance. Pitch 3. 5c. Move slightly left and up the wall right of the groove of Hot Gossip (thread and friend in pocket) to the roof. Good gear. Move up on good slightly sloping hold and then a longish reach to big jugs, pull out right to easy ground. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The description of Neil Fosters new route in this area (Party in the Park) courtesy of Graham Hoey is : Start as for Hot Gossip ( 6a -nice hidden jug up and right which I'd never spotted before!). After entering the groove traverse left at the obvious easy line above the roof for a couple of metres until below a thin crack. Climb this (one move of 5b/c to start) then easily up to belay below the cave of Castellan. Pitch 2 (6a/b) Hot Gossip to the roof (Laurin goes right, Hot Gossip straight up). Traverse excitedly left into the hanging scoop (Knee lock rest) good holds and gear (peg). Make crux move to move up the rib/crack to jugs and stance. Pitch 3. 5c. Move slightly left and up the wall right of the groove of Hot Gossip (thread and friend in pocket) to the roof. Good gear. Move up on good slightly sloping hold and then a longish reach to big jugs, pull out right to easy ground. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Moon Crack
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)