UKC

Restricted Access

High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines: 

  • With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
  • Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
  • When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
  • Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.

40m.

Rockfax Description
A worthy route. The upper section feels a little bold but solid gear keeps appearing. Start up Original Route. Move up then step left to a small overlap. Alternatively, follow Debauchery a little further then move back right to the overlap. Climb direct from here to gain a crack. Climb this to a final awkward section where the crack ends at a hole. Finish direct. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1976. Previously aided..

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist , Pete's Peak Treats

Feedback

User Date Notes
Michael Porter 16 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Thought this was better than Robert brown and Lyme crime
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought this was better than Robert brown and Lyme crime
GDes 3 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The fluttery symbol and "bold" description are worth ignoring, plenty of in situ gear, and plenty of bomber placements, not bold at all. Good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The fluttery symbol and "bold" description are worth ignoring, plenty of in situ gear, and plenty of bomber placements, not bold at all. Good route.
Ropeboy 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A few small wires, some in-situ threads and old pegs protect. Steady climbing with some tricky moves between good holds. Probably done best with 60m ropes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A few small wires, some in-situ threads and old pegs protect. Steady climbing with some tricky moves between good holds. Probably done best with 60m ropes.
teddy 23 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route and with a superdirect start straight up to the overlap without clipping the peg on the right! This was quite scary and runout with the hardest moves on the route I found. Only did this by mistake and recommend that you do it clipping the peg. Well done to whoever recently replaced the 4 insitu threads - absolute bombers!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route and with a superdirect start straight up to the overlap without clipping the peg on the right! This was quite scary and runout with the hardest moves on the route I found. Only did this by mistake and recommend that you do it clipping the peg. Well done to whoever recently replaced the 4 insitu threads - absolute bombers!
Katya 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Over-shaddowed by surrounding routes, but I thought it much better than your average 2* peak limestone route...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Over-shaddowed by surrounding routes, but I thought it much better than your average 2* peak limestone route...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for High Tor

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Queer Street

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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