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Outstanding face climbing, continuously interesting with the two hard sections linked by superb moves. Start just below the ledge of Original Route, below a short, capped groove up and right. Enter the groove (good low wire, peg) and climb it past two pegs to the top. Pull out right (wire) then back left to the rest on Flaky Wall. Follow this past its tricky bit and continue in a direct line up the pocketed wall to an exciting finish onto the ledge. © Rockfax
FA. Ron Fawcett, Geoff Birtles, Al Evans 1976. Curiously graded 6c when it was first done..
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Grade: E5 6b ***
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