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The perfect introduction to E5 and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe, with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct from the Original Route start to rejoin the route in its main groove. Climb up and place some wires then follow the thin crack in the arete until it runs out. Climb coolly to the jug (or thread hold?) and regain your composure. Move up the thin wall above (hidden peg on the left) with one final hard move to pass the break and gain the belay on Original Route. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Burke, Nadim Siddiqui, Al Evans 1979.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
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