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35m.

Rockfax Description
The perfect introduction to E5 and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe, with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct from the Original Route start to rejoin the route in its main groove. Climb up and place some wires then follow the thin crack in the arete until it runs out. Climb coolly to the jug (or thread hold?) and regain your composure. Move up the thin wall above (hidden peg on the left) with one final hard move to pass the break and gain the belay on Original Route. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Burke, Nadim Siddiqui, Al Evans 1979.

Ticklists

The High Tor Top Ten, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, James' Summer Ticklist, Classic Lobs, Four years of university hit list

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Lincoln 8 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tat replaced as of today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tat replaced as of today.
phatlad 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful, "deliciously run out", technical and genuinely good fun. On a beautiful summer's days you'd think you were in Buoux. One of the best routes bar none.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful, "deliciously run out", technical and genuinely good fun. On a beautiful summer's days you'd think you were in Buoux. One of the best routes bar none.
Tom Briggs 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wandering, escapable, overgraded and overrated! OK, that may be a bit unfair, but it really is like a F6b+ at an average crag in France.
 
Show beta
βeta: Wandering, escapable, overgraded and overrated! OK, that may be a bit unfair, but it really is like a F6b+ at an average crag in France.

Logged Ascents

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42 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 33
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Castellan

Grade: E5 6b ***
(High Tor)